CONCORD, N.H. – There is a right way and a wrong way to prepare a mango. I favor the wrong way.
That’s because virtually every food expert and cookbook I have consulted advocates using the “right” method, a process I consider stupid, wasteful and dangerous.
But before delving into the ontology of mango preparation, let’s talk about the fruit itself.
I concede that getting at the flesh of a mango isn’t easy. Most mangoes sold in the United States resemble large green and red eggs with a thick, bitter skin. Inside, tender yellow flesh surrounds (and firmly attaches itself to) a large, oblong pit.
To free the flesh from the skin and pit, most experts suggest cutting the mango into three pieces lengthwise so that the pit is contained in the middle piece. This leaves you with two sections that are flat on one side and rounded on the other. Discard the pit.
Next, use a paring knife to score (in a crosshatch pattern) the flesh of the two remaining sections. Be sure to cut down to, but not through, the skin.
Now flip each section inside out so that the scored mango flesh is jutting outward and the skin side forms a shallow bowl.
Still with me? This is where it gets dangerous.
Holding one of the inverted (and slippery) sections in one hand, use the paring knife to carefully cut the cubes of mango flesh (and perhaps your own) from the skin. You won’t get it all. Don’t bother trying.
You’ll now have a pile of oddly shaped mango cubes and will have little choice but to throw out about a third of the fruit.
If you’ll pardon the expression, what were those people smoking when they came up with that technique?
So here’s my way. Use a vegetable peeler to remove the skin from the entire mango. Go a bit deeper than you normally would, as the skin is thick. Stand the mango end and use a knife to cut the sides away from the pit.
This should leave you with two large chunks of flesh. Now use a paring knife to trim the flesh away from the ends of the mango pit.
It’s that easy. You’re left with large slabs of mango flesh that can be cubed, sliced or otherwise prepped as you like, and with little to no waste.
To make life even easier, consider investing in one of the new mango splitters. These great little gadgets resemble those round apple corer-slicers that you push down over the apple.
The mango version carefully cleaves the flesh from the pit.
Follow my directions for peeling, then use the mango splitter instead of the knife. Wonderful invention.
Now that you’ve got your mango flesh, use it to prepare these amazing pepper steak grinders. These pack an intense (but not overwhelming) bite that is mellowed by a simple relish made from mango and shallots.
And because these grinders call for ultra-thin, quick-cooking steaks, they can be prepped in just minutes.
Pepper Steak Grinders With Mango Relish and Provolone
(Start to finish 20 minutes)
INGREDIENTS
DIRECTIONS
Preheat grill or grill pan to high.
Cut each baguette section in half lengthwise. Slather one half of each section with mustard. Set aside.
Use a vegetable peeler to remove the skin of the mango, then use a paring knife to cut the flesh away from the pit. Use 1/2 mango for this recipe; reserve remaining mango for other use.
Combine the 1/2 mango and shallot in a food processor and pulse until finely diced. Spread this mango relish over the mustard, dividing it equally among the sections. Set aside.
Combine the pepper and salt in a shallow bowl. Firmly press one side of each steak in the salt and pepper to coat well. If you like, coat the second sides, as well. But be warned, this makes them quite potent.
Lightly coat the grill or grill pan with cooking spray. Grill the steaks for 2 to 3 minutes, or until cooked through. Flip once after about 1 minute.
Lay half a cheese slice on each steak. Close the lid of the grill or cover the pan, turn off the heat and let the steaks sit for 1 minute, or until the cheese melts.
To assemble the grinders, set 3 steaks over the mango mixture on each baguette section, then top with the other half of the section.
Makes 4 servings.
