As you drive west on Interstate 70 out of Denver, the first view of the Front Range Mountains can take your breath away. Dominating this view is James Peak (13,294 feet), a favorite of Front Range residents.
Although there are several ways to approach James Peak, for year-round access, the St. Mary’s Glacier Trail is my preferred starting point.
James Peak could be called “a peak for all seasons,” since there are opportunities for every kind of activity in the area.
During the summer months, the area around St. Mary’s Glacier and Lake is a popular spot for family outings, and many people will walk up the glacier to get a view of the peak. The glacier is always a favorite spot for aspiring mountaineers to practice their snow skills, but remember that without proper equipment and instruction, the glacier can be hazardous. Rescues are common when unprepared visitors wander onto the steeper parts of the glacier.
During the winter, spring and even summer months you are likely to encounter skiers and snowboarders yo-yoing the glacier, but fewer venture across the flats above the glacier and onto the slopes of James Peak. Early May usually provides the most reliable skiing conditions on the peak, and during some years we have been able to enjoy an uninterrupted ski run down from the peak to St. Mary’s Lake, almost 3,000 feet of vertical!
In the summer and autumn the standard route becomes a straightforward trail hike.
We enjoyed a fine snowshoe outing on this peak recently, described here.
Look for the snow
From the parking area (Waypoint “Parking area”), walk back 200 yards down the road to the start of the old jeep road signed to Saint Mary’s Glacier. The trail heads up the road, taking the left fork (uphill) after 200 yards, and again taking the left fork 150 yards farther. Continue on the trail to Saint Mary’s Lake, a total of 0.6 miles from the car.
The glacier starts at the far end of the lake. Head for the right-hand margin of the glacier, where the slopes are gentlest, and walk northwest up the glacier, usually on firm snow at this time of the year.
From the upper reaches of the glacier you will have your first view of James Peak. Depending on the snow, you may find a trail, periodically marked by giant cairns, leading across the flats towards James Peak.
If you look closely at the rugged face on the peak’s right side, you can see the top of “Superstar,” guarded at the very top by an impressive cornice that usually stays around for a long time.
Cross the flats, aiming for the broad snow slope to the left of the prominent ridge, and climb this broad slope as it gradually curves around to the north before depositing you on the southeast ridge, shortly before the summit.
See if you can identify some of the distant peaks as you enjoy lunch on the summit.
To descend, reverse your route, being careful to aim for the correct valley at the head of Saint Mary’s Glacier. More than one group, especially in poor visibility, has ended up in the wrong drainage on the way down! A good landmark to aim for is a large rock outcrop just above the glacier.
Dave Cooper is the author of “Colorado Scrambles: A Guide to 50 Select Climbs in Colorado’s Mountains.”
