I learned Saturday that democracy had fully entrenched itself in Leipzig when I walked out of the Stasi Museum, the former headquarters of the East German secret police, and almost immediately saw a 30-foot Corona bottle. Yes, the World Cup has come to the former East Germany, and Mexico was in town. Leipzig and the World Cup seemed like an odd coupling at first, adding such a symbol of gray oppression to the lineup of glittery cities such as Munich, Cologne and Frankfurt. Turns out, Leipzig might have them all beat. The city center is marked by spectacular architecture, and Barfussgasschen Strasse has so many sidewalk cafes with umbrellas, its narrow pedestrian street is engulfed in shadows. It has modernized itself quite well. Twenty years ago, in the final throes of a 40-year communist reign, Leipzig didn’t have Chocolate, my Friday night watering hole, where a massive chandelier hung from the ceiling and two stylish women sipped Brazilian caipirinhas. But the next day the Stasi Museum offered a chilling reminder of the real East Germany. Remaining is the old holding cell and the shredding machine that destroyed tons of documents shortly before the Berlin Wall fell in 1989. In the nearby Zeitgeschichtliches Forum, showing the history of East Germany, I saw a video of two women shaking hands and crying as the Berlin Wall goes up between them in 1961. Then I walked outside and saw a man in a sombrero eating a sausage. Thanks for joining this party, Leipzig.
auf Wiedersehen,
– John
