Hey, not all dates have to begin with dinner. Instead of planning a night on the town, how about a brunch of dim sum followed by an outing to the zoo, a museum or a movie matinee?
There are other Chinese restaurants that do dim sum, for sure, but if this is something you’ve heard about, always wanted to try but lacked the daring or gastrointestinal fortitude of an Anthony Bourdain, the Palace restaurant is a good place to start.
This time of year, when heat can take a toll on an interest in food, it’s pleasant to adjourn to a nicely cooled, warmly decorated restaurant that allows you to eat as much or as little as you like. The food is light, flavorful and pleasing to the palate.
“Dim sum” comes from the Cantonese, meaning “heart’s delight.” It is notable for bite-sized dumplings or sesame-encrusted pieces of chicken, steamed buns and Chinese pastries. It can encompass as many as 50 or as few as 20 choices.
If you’re dining out on a limited budget and aren’t familiar with the concept, the Palace’s dim sum is enough of an adventure to start you in the right direction without breaking the bank (charges are by the plate, so make sure you know how much each plate is).
Sure, there are perfectly respectable authentic Asian restaurants in town, especially along South Federal Boulevard, so if this midday tradition is alien to you, it’s OK to start at a place without language barriers that serves foods that are not intimidating (chicken feet, while yummy, aren’t everyone’s cup of tea).
Palace staff stroll through, stopping by your table, letting you decide what you’d like to try. Don’t be afraid to ask if you’re not certain of what you’d like. There might be a few mysteries, but you can always count on familiar ingredients.
Palace offerings, in the $3-$7 range, might include two to four pieces of a chicken and shrimp shao mai (sometimes spelled (“shu mai”, a Peking duck steamed spring roll, edamame (OK, it’s more recognizable as a Japanese appetizer, but it’s still a good source of protein), vegetable dumplings, roast pork, tea-smoked duck, clams, egg rolls and coconut shrimp.
Items vary, and you shouldn’t be disappointed if an item runs out. Just have seconds on a fave. If you’re a sucker for dumplings, you can have a field day with the shu mai alone. I like them because you can spoon the sauce – redolent with soy, scallions, red pepper and rice vinegar – right into the top and munch away.
This is fun food because, if eaten the traditional way, you can have early brunch of a different sort and then head out to someplace wonderful.
Be sure to try at least one little custard pie.
| Palace Chinese Restaurant
CHINESE|6265 E. Evans Ave. 303-782-0300 |$3-$8|Dim Sum served 10:30-3 p.m. daily. Amex, Diner’s Club, Discover, MC, Visa
Front burner: Divine dumplings
Back burner: Parking can be in short supply, despite parking lot in front.
