It’s almost time to say goodbye to the luscious, ripe summer fruit that we’ve all so much enjoyed. Although these days we have out-of-season fruit shipped in from the four corners of the world, there’s nothing quite like local, fresh-picked seasonal produce for flavor and nutritional value.
We have every reason still to think of fruit as dessert’s most handy resource. It’s so easy to make the most of fruit, to give it a twist, a new flavor, with some detail of presentation. There are fast, fun ways to enjoy the wide range of fruit you can find available, both end-of-season and always-in-season fruit. And of all desserts, fruit, of course, is one of the healthiest.
For those who have the time and inclination, this is the optimum time to make homemade jams, preserves and pickles for the months ahead, just like our great-grandmothers did.
But if you’re the type who prefers almost-instant gratification, there are other ways to take advantage of the last of summer’s bounty, as well as ripe fruit that’s not so tied to the season:
-Take a melon, for example (any kind of melon will do), slice or cube it, and toss with slivered fresh mint leaves or minced crystallized ginger.
-Prepare a luscious, quick hot chocolate sauce, and serve fondue-style with strawberries or pieces of any fruit (recipe follows).
-Puree a mango and freeze it in reusable ice-pop containers.
-Puree any fruit, peeled if necessary, strain and add a little lemon or orange juice to prevent browning. Serve over ice cream.
-Make an energy shake, using milk or juice as a base, fresh fruit and ice cubes.
-Freeze grapes individually, and serve straight from the freezer for a crisp, refreshing snack.
-Add fresh fruit to your regular green salad. (Especially good with a vinaigrette using raspberry vinegar.)
Or try one of the following sweet and simple desserts:
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In this end-of-summer fruit focaccia, adapted from the “Canyon Ranch Cookbook,” author Jeanne Jones uses applesauce to enrich the texture and reduce the amount of butter necessary in a tempting and lovely-to-look-at dessert.
Rather than use only plums as in the original version, I like to vary the recipe with a variety of colorful fruit.
End-of-Summer Focaccia
INGREDIENTS
3/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 cup whole wheat flour
1/4 cup light brown or turbinado sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons non-aluminum baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons cold butter, cut into pieces
1 egg, preferably organic
1/4 cup skim milk
2 tablespoons unsweetened applesauce
1 teaspoon real vanilla extract
1 1/2 cups pitted thinly sliced peaches
1 cup pitted thinly sliced fresh purple plums
1 1/2 cups pitted thinly sliced nectarines
1 tablespoon melted butter, for the topping
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon
1/3 cup mild flavored honey, like clover or citrus
DIRECTIONS
Preheat oven to 375 F.
First make the crust: In a medium bowl, sift together flours, sugar, baking powder and salt. Add cold pieces of butter and rub between the palms of your hands until mixture resembles coarse crumbs. In a small bowl, whisk together milk, applesauce and vanilla till smooth. Add egg mixture to flour mixture and stir with a fork to blend. Spoon the batter into a lightly greased 9-by-13-inch pan (or line bottom and sides with parchment paper affixed with a little butter), and spread with the back of a spoon or spatula to distribute equally. (Dough will be thin.)
Make a lengthwise row of peaches on the dough, letting the slices overlap. Repeat with rows of plums and nectarines to cover the top of the dough, leaving 1/2-inch free on each side. Mix melted butter, cinnamon and honey and pour over the fruit equally. Bake in the preheated oven for 25 minutes or until fruit is soft and crust is golden brown. Bring to room temperature and cut into strips or squares.
Makes 8 to 10 servings.
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This easy dessert is a sensuous combination of frozen mango, whipped cream and a bubbling-hot topping of crispy caramelized brown sugar.
Mango Brulee
INGREDIENTS
3 large mangos, peeled and sliced
8-ounce container heavy cream
1 1/2 cups brown sugar, packed
DIRECTIONS
In a 10-inch round freezer- and ovenproof dish (like Pyrex), place the mango slices around the dish in an even layer. Use a separate chilled bowl and beaters to whip the cream, and then use a metal spatula to distribute it evenly over the mango. Cover with plastic wrap and freeze (may be prepared up to 3 days in advance).
Before serving, heat the broiler to high, remove the dish from the freezer and spread an even layer of brown sugar over the frozen whipped cream. Pat down. Let stand 10 minutes at room temperature.
Slip the dish into the upper third of the oven and broil for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the sugar is caramelized, and the whipped cream layer is the consistency of ice cream. Turn the dish occasionally for even browning.
(Alternatively, caramelize using a blowtorch; hold flame a few inches away and move around, until sugar is golden-brown and bubbly.)
Serve immediately.
Makes 4 to 6 servings.
(Adapted from “The Essential Book of Jewish Festival Cooking” by Phyllis Glazer and Miriyam Glazer, Harper-Collins, 2004.)
Honey-Sauteed Pineapple
INGREDIENTS
3 medium fresh pineapples
6 star anise
1 cup wildflower honey
Coarse salt
4 to 6 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
DIRECTIONS
Peel the pineapple and cut lengthwise into quarters. Heat a large nonstick skillet and toast the star anise for 1 minute. Add the honey, lemon juice and pineapple quarters. Cook over medium heat for 5 minutes, adding a pinch of salt just before the end of cooking time. Transfer the pineapple quarters to a serving platter, or divide among 6 individual dishes and pour the sauce (including the star anise) over the top. Serve immediately.
Makes 6 servings.
(Adapted from “The Essential Book of Jewish Festival Cooking” by Phyllis Glazer and Miriyam Glazer, Harper-Collins, 2004.)
This recipe makes a sensually pleasing fudge sauce in only 5 minutes. Pour it into a fondue pot or small bowl on a candlelit warmer in the center of a large tray, surrounded by a colorful array of toothpick-speared seasonal fruit.
Note: If you are allergic to chocolate, you can substitute carob powder for cocoa powder. To enhance flavor, add 1 to 2 teaspoons instant regular or decaffeinated coffee powder.
Bittersweet Chocolate Kahlua Fudge Sauce
INGREDIENTS
1/4 cup butter
1/2 cup packed brown sugar
1/4 cup white sugar
1/2 cup cocoa
1/2 cup boiling water
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons cold water
2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 teaspoon real vanilla extract
3 tablespoons Kahlua or Frangelico liqueur or cognac
Pinch salt
DIRECTIONS
In a small saucepan, melt butter and add brown and white sugars, stirring constantly till dissolved. In a small bowl, mix cocoa powder and 1/2 cup boiling water till smooth with no lumps. Stir into the pot. Add 1 cup cold water. In the same small bowl, mix cornstarch and 2 tablespoons cold water till smooth. Stir this into the cocoa-sugar mixture and cook over low heat 2 or 3 minutes, stirring often, till thickened. Remove from heat, add vanilla, Kahlua or other liqueur, and a pinch of salt, and serve.
To store, pour into a jar or container and let cool. Cover and store up to 4 days. Reheat by placing jar in a saucepan half-filled with boiling water, or briefly in the microwave till just hot.
Makes 2 cups, 4 to 6 servings.
(Recipe created by Phyllis Glazer)
