In the battle of the rankings, the same two winter resorts constantly claim king-of-the-hill status. Some ski magazine subscribers and slope-schussing journalists pick Colorado’s Vail as the top destination in North America. Other readers and writers give the gold medal to Canada’s Whistler Blackcomb, host of the 2010 Olympics.
Both resorts offer an arsenal of high-speed lifts ready to whisk riders up powder-packed peaks. Both feature base villages filled with lodging, restaurants, bars, shops and spas. Both boast world-renowned ski schools, provide hosts of family-friendly activities, and both draw enough foreign-speaking visitors to make lift lines sound like United Nations cafeteria queues. Choosing one over the other is a matter of personal preference.
For example, there’s the ease of reaching the destination. Vail lies about 100 miles west of DenverFrom the Mile High metropolis, a two-hour ride up Interstate 70 leads to the resort. For those who want to minimize the commute, nonstop flights to the Vail/Eagle County Airport can be booked from at least 13 major cities, including Denver.
Whistler, on the other hand, is located north of Vancouver in British Columbia, and flights to the Great White North are a bit more limited. A passport will be required for air travelers, and passengers must clear customs, both coming and going. From the airport, it’s a 70-mile drive up a winding, two-lane highway to the resort.
“The road is our Achilles heel,” says Whistler resident Greg Pritchard. “It’s just fine if you’re not in a hurry. If you are, it’s a nightmare.”
The difference in accessibility may be countered by value. Prices look about the same at both resorts, but at Whistler, one pays in Canadian currency. With 90 American cents buying one Canadian dollar, it’s as if everything is on sale at a 10 percent discount. Also, on accommodations and major purchases, Canada’s Goods and Services Tax is refundable to nonresident visitors. Vail’s sales tax is not.
Of course, one goes skiing for the slopes. Whistler Blackcomb features 8,171 skiable acres on two adjacent mountains. The drop from the top is a vertical mile and the longest run, a quad-burning seven. It’s like skiing rim-to-river in the Grand Canyon.
On a clear day, Whistler Blackcomb visitors gaze at a sea of black volcanic crags cresting through a blanket of glistening white. It looks and feels like the Alps, complete with glaciers.
“Whether you’re an extreme skier wanting a black-diamond run or a beginner heading up for the view, the mountains offer a dramatic feeling,” boasts Michele Comeau of Tourism Whistler.
With a location mere miles from the Pacific, the mountains can be socked in. Colored plates mark routes above timberline, but finding them in a pea-soup whiteout can be challenging. One advantage of having a mile of vertical relief is that weather and snow conditions are not uniform, and while it may be foggy in one spot, clarity may reign in another.
More than half of Whistler Blackcomb’s terrain is intermediate with plenty left over for beginners and advanced riders. Experts can descend off-piste drops steep enough to make Warren Miller salivate, and riders who like to go airborne can choose from a trio of halfpipes and a quintet of parks. Its Highest Level Terrain Park is one of North America’s best.
“One side is rated black diamond and the other double-black diamond,” says park supervisor Stu Osborne. “You need to sign a waiver, obtain a special pass and wear a helmet to use the area.”
Another 7,000 acres nearby
Although Vail also boasts four parks and a halfpipe, freestyle skiing is not its forte. Instead, the resort offers 5,289 acres of slopes and glades, perfect for those who want to glide groomers and bash bowls. Since Vail lift tickets are also honored at Beaver Creek, Breckenridge, Keystone and Arapahoe Basin, visitors can sample another 7,000 acres within an hour’s drive.
At 8,120 feet above sea level, Vail’s base is higher than the tallest summit at Whistler, and flatlanders may need a few days to adjust to the thin air. That altitude, combined with an inland location, is what gives Vail drier flakes and fluffier powder.
“Three inches of snow goes further here than any place I’ve ever been,” says ski instructor Dave Bolte.
Vail’s trails descend from a long ridge, and on a clear day, the views from the top are impressive. To the north lie the snow-plastered pyramids of the Gore Range, and 14,000-foot peaks rise to the south. While Vail lacks the steep plunges found at Whistler, more than half its trails carry black-diamond designation. Much of the advanced terrain lies in Vail’s famed back bowls, where riders can plow powder and mash moguls far from the madding crowds.
“It’s a nice place to get away from the kids and beginners on the front side of the mountain,” says Bolte.
For the nonskier or boarder, Vail offers Adventure Ridge, a high-mountain playground located at the top of the Eagle Bahn Gondola. In the afternoon, folks can snow tube, ski bike, ice skate, snowshoe or bungee bounce. There’s even a race track with mini-snowmobiles designed for 6- 12-year-olds.
At the base of the mountain, Vail offers a village with two main centers a short shuttle ride from each other. Originally designed to be faux-Alpine in motif, a lack of central planning and oversight has left the town bearing a hodgepodge of architectural styles.
Vail’s shops vend goods from T-shirts to furs, and should Kobe Bryant ever need to buy his wife another ring, there are several pricey jewelry stores. The town teems with eateries ranging from burger bars to gourmet restaurants, and it sports a small array of hotels, most falling in the boutique to ritzy category. Those of more modest means can find chain motels along the interstate a few miles from town.
Moderate lodging can, however, be found in the sprawling enclave located at the base of Whistler Blackcomb. Unlike Vail’s architectural potpourri, Whistler’s base follows a tidy theme, which Westin Hotel spokeswoman Monica Hayes describes as “rustic-chic.”
A friendly bunch
Along its pedestrian walkways, one finds the usual array of sports stores, apparel shops and souvenir emporiums. Owners and clerks are a friendly bunch, and most still respond to a sincere “thank you” with a refreshing “you’re welcome.” Ski area officials brag that between 70-75 percent of the people who work in Whistler actually live in Whistler.
After a day on the slopes, some visitors crave nightlife. Although both areas offer a host of bars, pubs and lounges, Whistler’s après ski scene may be a bit more eclectic and a tad more raucous.
“If you’re into partying, there’s a pretty good chance you’re going to go home from Whistler more tired than you were before you came,” says filmmaker Paul Cotton.
Vail’s nightlife may be a bit quieter, but there’s still plenty from which to choose. Night owls will find clubs catering to what ski instructor Bolte calls the “snowboard crowd” and others geared for more mature clientele who remember when skis were wooden and in-house musicians had hair.
“You could probably go to 12 or more different bars in one night, all within easy walking distance,” says Bolte.
A final difference comes when it’s time to order. In British Columbia, the local brew is Kokanee, a lightly-hopped Canadian lager. At Vail, it’s Coors.
Once again, choosing one area over the other is a matter of personal preference.
Daily lift ticket prices (800-842-8062, vail.com) have not been set yet, but advance purchase five-day tickets will run $285-$415 during the season. Expect large crowds around Christmas, Presidents Day and any day after a fresh dump of powder.
Get there: Vail lies along Interstate 70, about 100 miles west of Denver. For those who do not want to drive up the freeway, Colorado Mountain Express (800-525-6363, ridecme.com) offers van transportation from the airport for $69 per person each way. For out-of-
towners, flights can also be booked directly to the Vail/Eagle County Airport from at least 13 major cities. The airport lies 30 minutes west of Vail and Colorado Mountain Express (800-525-6363, ridecme.com) shuttles guests to town for $45 per person each way.
Accommodations: For a listing of properties in the area, check Vail Valley Chamber Tourism Bureau reservation line (800-653-4523, visitvailvalley.com).
For more information: Contact the Vail Resort (877-204-7881, vail.com) or the Vail Valley Chamber Tourism Bureau (970-476-1000, visitvailvalley.com).
– Dan Leeth
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WHISTLER BLACKCOMB
Skiing Whistler Blackcomb: Daily lift ticket prices (888-
403-4727, whistlerblackcomb.com) for the upcoming season have not been set yet, but five-day tickets will cost $272-365 Canadian (about $245-328 U.S.). Expect larger crowds around Christmas and in February when Canadians begin taking spring break.
Get there: Whistler lies about 70 miles north of the Vancouver International Airport on Highway 99. For those who do not want to drive, Perimeter’s Whistler Express (877-317-7788, perimeterbus.com) offers scheduled bus transfers from the airport to the village with prices starting at $67 Canadian (about $60 U.S.) per person each way. For travel in style, stretch limousines (800-803-9222, starlimousine.com) for six can be booked for $350 Canadian (about $315 U.S.) each way.
Accommodations: Check with Whistler Central Reservations (888-403-4727, whistlerblack comb.com/accommodation) for a list of properties in and around Whistler Village.
For more information: Contact Whistler Blackcomb Mountains (800-766-0449, whistler blackcomb.com) or Tourism Whistler (877-991-9988, tourismwhistler.com).
– Dan Leeth
