Believe it or not, Italy has no single cultural identity. When you consider its size (116,320 square miles), population (57.5 million), politics (it did not become a unified nation until 1861), and number of regions (21 stretching from the Alps to Sicily), you can easily understand why. Its people speak a variety of dialects, enjoy a wide range of cuisines, and display an overwhelming sense of pride in their artistic and cultural heritage. With this in mind, seasoned travelers are more likely to opt for a regional, intense visit rather than one than leaves them feeling a bit like the well-worn cliche “if it’s Tuesday it must be Belgium.”
Boston-based travel agent Donna Franca, whose company specializes in Italy, says that while Rome is first in terms of number of visitors, Florence and the region of Tuscany ranks second in popularity. And why not? Mention the name Tuscany and images of Renaissance art, ramparts and towers, piazzas and campos, medieval hill towns, and vineyard-dotted countryside compete for your attention. Florence, Siena, Cortona, San Gimignano; the Medici, Michelangelo, Giotto, Botticelli; olive oil, mortadella, pecorino, biscotti; Chianti, Brunello Di Montalcino, Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano, Vin Santo. The biggest decision for any visitor to this glorious region is where to start.
Without question, Florence, the capital of the province and one of the world’ s most majestic and artistic cities, is the best place to begin. Personally, I love the idea of a hop-on hop-off bus tour for orientation to any new city, and with all there is to see in Florence, this is a “must.” The city is technically divided into four historic districts named for important churches — Santa Maria Novella, San Giovanni, Santa Croce and Santo Spirito — all north of the River Arno, which divides the city from east to west. The hop-on hop-off bus tour (30 euros for adults) departs daily at 9 a.m. from the Santa Maria Novella railway station and includes 15 stops at the city’s most important places: the Duomo, Santa Croce, Ponte Vecchio, Ufizzi Gallery, Pitti Palace and Piazzale Michelangelo to name just a few. The bus departs every half hour from each of the stops, so you can easily spend an entire day on this tour picking and choosing how long you’d like to spend at each location.
Walking tours are also a popular way to see the city, and my favorite is “Florence in a Day,” led by an expert in Florentine and Renaissance history, who leads you through its streets and piazzas offering insights no guide book could possibly provide. The tour also includes a morning visit to the Accademia to view Michelangelo’s “David” and his four “Slaves” and an afternoon visit to the spectacular Uffizi. The all-inclusive tour (65 euros for adults) includes pre-paid reservation/entrance fees at each museum that guarantees no waiting in line.
Between the two locations, you pass through Piazza del Duomo, the epicenter of Florence, where three of the city’s most striking edifices are located: the red, green, and cream marble Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore, a masterpiece of medieval and Renaissance engineering; the octagon-shaped Battistero di San Giovanni, or baptistery, used for centuries to baptize every Florentine child; and the Campanile, the cathedral’s bell tower, designed by Giotto and filled with reliefs and statues by Donatello, della Robbia, and other leading Renaissance sculptors. For booking details on bus or walking tours, visit www.aboutflorence.com or www.tours-italy.com.
Art and architecture aside, Florence is also a terrific town for shopping, window- or otherwise. Undoubtedly, a saunter across the Ponte Vecchio will be on your agenda, but be advised that this is no bridge for bargain hunters or souvenir seekers like, say, the Rialto Bridge in Venice. All that glitters truly is gold here, but if you’re in the market for other authentic Florentine treasures, keep in mind that the Gucci (leather) empire was founded here, as was Pucci, whose line of dramatically dyed silk fabrics has been in and out of fashion for more than 50 years.
Florence is also headquarters for shoemaker Salvatore Ferragamo and for countless vendors peddling look-alike designer leather handbags, belts, jackets and shoes in markets near Mercato Centrale, the city’s main food market, and at Mercato Nuovo, the “new market” (1547), off of Piazza della Repubblica. Within this market, very close to the Piazza della Signoria, is Il Porcellino, a bronze statue of a wild boar, designed in 1612. One legend says if you kiss the boar’s nose, you will return to Florence or have good luck, and another says that if you place a coin in the mouth of the boar and if it falls in the slot below, you will return to Florence. I’ve done both and returned three times!
For original Florentine products, look for marbled paper, glazed pottery, and any of the traditional crafts being made in the Oltrarno area, south of the city, also home to the Pallazzo Pitti, adjacent Boboli Gardens (Florence’s principal green space), and countless narrow streets of small shops selling bric-a-brac, antiques, and reasonably priced food. But for a taste of Tuscany on a grand scale, head back to Mercato Centrale in the heart of San Lorenzo to wander the stalls of the city’s busiest food market. This fabulous two-storey building of cast iron and glass was built in 1847 and houses a mouth-watering array of Tuscan treasures ranging from porchetta (roast suckling pig) and lampredotto (pig’s intestines) to truffles, cheese, and a full range of local fruits and vegetables, fish, and cheese. Resisting all temptations to purchase fresh food, unless for a picnic, visitors will have to settle for non-perishable food souvenirs like olive oil, dried mushrooms, and pasta.
We explored other Tuscan treasures during out autumn visit last year — an excellent time to visit, by the way — cities like Siena, well-known for its zebra-striped Duomo, which many claim is superior to that of Florence, and Il Campo, the scallop-shaped main square where the ancient horse race, The Palio, is run twice yearly on July 2 and August 16; Montepulciano, a classic Tuscan hill town with only one main street, the Corso, but the place to sample and buy its velvety Vino de Nobile wine; San Gimignano, famous for its towers and production of Vernaccia white wine; and medieval Cortona, founded by the Etruscans in the 8th century.
With narrow, sometimes difficult roads to maneuver, we found that day trips around Tuscany are easiest and most advisable, so we based ourselves at two splendid properties — Villa San Michele in the hilltop town of Fiesole (it offers great views of Florence when there’s no fog (nebbia), as is often the case in autumn, and Il Falconiere, a lovely estate in Camuchia, outside of Cortona. Following our daily tours, we returned “home” each afternoon and enjoyed incredible Tuscan-inspired meals each evening without ever having to make a decision on where to eat.
Visiting is one thing, but if the idea of living under the Tuscan sun appeals to you, a new project called Castello Di Casole (www.castellodicasole.com), a community of Tuscan farmhouses, will sweep you away. Set on a 6000-acre estate about 45 minutes south of Florence, Castello di Casole is designed for travelers who want all the benefits of second home ownership without the hassle of maintaining it.
The three- and four-bedroom farmhouses (casales) are constructed in a traditional, rustic Tuscan style with stunning furnishings and contemporary amenities a luxury homeowner expects. Both whole and fractional ownership is available, and with it comes services and indulgences such as a bi-lingual concierge, private-label wine and olive oil, an infinity-edged pool at each farmhouse, and a personal chef to prepare your Tuscan meals. For those who prefer to cook their own Tuscan meals, however, each casale has a traditional Italian brick oven on the terrace, which will surely be the center of every meal. In 2008, a luxury hotel and spa will be completed on the property.
INCIDENTAL INTELLIGENCE:
WHERE TO STAY AND EAT
Villa San Michele, 4 Via Doccia (555-678200, www.villasanmichele. orient-express.com), is a former 15th century Franciscan monastery nestled in the woodlands of the Fiesole hillside overlooking Florence. Michelangelo designed its fagade, and the hotel’s lounge was once a chapel that features a magnificent fresco of the Last Supper dating back to 1602. Some of its 45 rooms (including 26 suites) are located in the original monastery, while other newer ones surround the pool and gardens. While Renaissance in feel, the hotel is fully equipped with state-of-the-art modern conveniences. The restaurant on the Loggia offers some of the finest food in Tuscany with a view of the city to match. Try grilled Florentine beef in Brunello wine sauce with white beans or wild boar filled with herbs. There’s also a cooking school with specialized hands-on classes in Tuscan cuisine offered March to October. B&B rates start at 600 euros for standard rooms; 1100 euros for suites.
Il Falconiere, 370 Localita S. Martino (575-612679, www.ilfalconiere.com) is a splendid estate set amid vineyards and olive groves just outside the Etruscan hill town of Cortona. The hotel, a member of prestigious Relais & Chateaux, includes original buildings that date back to the 1600s. Some of its 19 rooms are located in the main villa while others are in a separate building called “Le Vigne del Falco” adjacent to the pool. There is a chapel on the property and the restaurant, with glass and wrought iron conservatory, is housed in what was once the lemon house. Try homemade pastas like tagliatelle or tortelloni and continue with local veal or pork for a sensational dinner. The Baracchi family also operates “Cooking Under The Tuscan Sun” program and a wine making facility produces three distinctive reds: Ardito, Smeriglio, and Astore. B&B rates start at 300 euros for a standard double room.
VISITOR INFORMATION
The Tourist Information Office for the Province of Florence is at 1 Via Cavour (www.firenzetourismo.it) for the City of Florence, 16 Via Manzoni (www.apt.firenze.it). Other offices are at the Railway Station and at G. Marconi airport. For general tourist information, visit www.italiantourism.com.
The country code for Italy is 39; all phone numbers are for local calls. The currency unit is the Euro.
