Kedem Sparkling Merlot, about $8
What’s a wine lover to do when she doesn t want alcohol but wants something more interesting than water and less sweet than pop? Search out good grape juice. Concord grape juice the tongue-staining purple stuff that populates grocery store shelves can be delicious, but it tends to be
too sweet and dense to match with many foods. Grape juices made from wine grapes, on the other hand, tend to be less sweet, lighter and more delicate. Check out sweetwatercellars.com, a specialist in non-alcoholic varietal grape and apple juices. Among its many choices, it carries a delicately grapey, kosher sparkling merlot from Kedem that s terrific with latkes ($8, especially the sweet potato ones in today s paper.) | Royal
Wine Corp., Bayonne, N.J. | Tara Q. Thomas
