Were it not for the No. 1 rule of the budget gourmet – skip a ritzy bill by visiting upscale restaurants for brunch, lunch or happy hour – Café Star might never have revealed its charm to this neighbor.
I had an immediate and visceral reaction to the décor after Café Star opened two-plus years ago. Its rainbow-hued, stained-glass wall separating the bar form the dining room paired with tufted, red vinyl booths struck me as a garish distraction from otherwise inventive food.
It took more than a year for me to return to Café Star. Then, on a chilly December evening, frazzled by family holiday planning, happy hour beckoned me back to this East Colfax eatery. The bartender made several excellent and inexpensive menu recommendations.
First, the wild greens, beet, pistachio and fried goat cheese salad ($7.50) boasted an ideal combination of creamy, tangy and sweet. Next, a small plate of crab ravioli ($10.95) arrived al dente in a subtle, slurp-worthy butter sauce.
That experience lured me back two weekends later to try Café Star’s new Sunday brunch menu. Prices range from $9 for an applewood smoked bacon, gorgonzola and leek omelet to $14 for lobster and rock shrimp bruschetta served with poached eggs, roma tomatoes and a lemon-tarragon beurre blanc.
The omelet featured airy eggs folded over bite-size chunks of bacon; soft, tangy leeks; and rich but not abundant gorgonzola cheese. Add the spiced and crisped fingerling potatoes and this dish proved satisfying without the usual Sunday brunch coma.
My companion ate potato- chive crepes filled with smoked ruby trout and spinach, then topped with two perfectly poached eggs and dill crème fraiche ($10).
Nutty, freshly ground coffee that had tasted too strong on the first sip became a warming blanket for the taste buds after these zesty dishes.
One last daytime trip to Café Star for lunch cemented its place in my heart as a high- end spot with budget-minded menu options. The lunch menu fuses the restaurant’s brunch and lighter dinner options, like the snackable three-pizzetta ($6) or the hearts of romaine salad ($7), which alone is quite plain but blossoms into a light meal by adding a little protein.
One other upside to visiting Café Star when the sun is up: Daylight streaming through its tall windows illuminates the outside hustle and bustle of Colfax Avenue. In warmer weather, customers can enjoy that show from a tiny patio on the restaurant’s west side.
Staff writer Elana Ashanti Jefferson can be reached at 303-954-1957 or ejefferson@denverpost.com.
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Café Star
Healthy comfort food|
3201 E. Colfax Ave., Denver. 303-320-8635|Lunch and brunch options from $9-$14|
Wednesday through Monday, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. for lunch, and 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. for dinner. Brunch is served only on Sunday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Closed Tuesdays.
Major credit cards; no checks.
Front burner: The Sunday brunch menu is affordable, healthful and tasty.
Back burner: Daylight illuminates decorating shortcuts like the stapled black cloth on the ceiling, and the wear and tear on the red vinyl booths.
