The snow stopped abruptly, as though it had been measured before being sifted, just as the three of us walked onto the gondola, as leisurely as stepping into an elevator.
A couple entered after we did, also at a relatively casual pace, and we jostled for position in the roomy cabin. Meant for eight, the gondola had no problem accommodating the five of us and five pairs of skis, with room for stretching our legs. We settled in for the 10-minute ride to the base of Breckenridge Ski Resort’s Peak 8.
The trading of the basics (we are from Denver, they are from London, we come to the mountains nearly every weekend, they come to Colorado every winter) led to the inevitable question on both sides: Where is our favorite place to ski?
If Lisa Stanfield had her way, she and husband Seb would spend their entire Colorado vacation in Breckenridge. “This is our fifth year here; we just love it,” Lisa said. “It has such a great town, and the on-piste runs are lovely, and if you go up high, the off-piste-like stuff is quite fabulous too.”
Seb Stanfield has a business partner in London who knows someone who has a condo in Breckenridge, which helps with the lodging. But they have checked out several of the other resorts around Colorado as well, and have decided that Breckenridge is their favorite.
“Seb always wants to see if there’s anyone famous in Vail,” Lisa said. “But who gives a pooh about famous people? I want the, what are you always saying? The powder, and I want to be able to breathe. I don’t want skiers piled on top of me. I let him have his Vail day, but the rest of the time, we’re right here.”
Hitting higher ground
Right here at the moment happens to be the base of Peak 8, where the gondola, called BreckConnect, has the capacity to dump out about 2,800 people per hour. The group clumps off the gondola and up the ramp toward the complex of buildings and lifts, where we wish Lisa and Seb a powder-filled vacation.
They plan to spend some time warming up on the lower slopes before heading over to Imperial Lift, which reaches 12,840 feet, making it the highest lift in North America. There the Stanfields will look for that “off-piste-like stuff” – the European version of backcountry – in Peak 8’s beautiful cornices and short, super-steep (up to 50 degrees) chutes.
We’ll stay lower, exploring mostly greens and blues, because we are at three levels of skiing ability – my having just learned to ski again after 11 years of snowboarding, spending the day out with one daughter a beginner-intermediate after also switching from snowboarding and one daughter who confidently skis the blacks.
But we have begun to explore the terrain parks too, and Peak 8 is also set up to accommodate that need, with the large Freeway Super Park and Pipe, found off Chair 5 or off the Colorado SuperChair to Four O’Clock Run.
There’s also a smaller, more kid-oriented version at the bottom after the beginner runs off Chair 5 – the ideal place for beginner and starting-over skiers to practice getting some air and playing in the half pipe secure in the knowledge that most of the others here are learning too.
It’s that variety – and we’ve only just touched on Peak 8 here, never mind Peaks 7, 9 and 10 – that has made us fall in love all over again with Breckenridge. It’s easy to navigate, family-friendly and famously snowboarder-friendly, although the number of skiers proves there is room for both.
The town, founded in 1859, has a real-town feel, with restaurants in a variety of price ranges – actually, quite a few reasonable ones considering this is a resort area – and a scene that’s still far shy of pretentious.
Of course, there’s no such thing as the perfect ski town. Every area has its weaknesses – too crowded, too expensive, too small or too remote when winter whips through the passes. The complaints at Breckenridge often involve the notorious wind, which over the past couple of weekends and one weekday visit kicked up here and there, and last weekend sporadically shut down parts of the mountain and BreckConnect.
Lofty views too
Which was quite a blow, because the gondola, which opened at the beginning of the year and cost $17 million, is Breck’s new pride and joy. It will have set the standard for avoiding interference with wetlands by spanning 720 feet in one section, and it makes two turns, both in the midst of some impressive real estate, which many suspect was the reason for the thing in the first place. BreckConnect will go all the way to the terminal at Peak 7 in 2008.
If you can get to it easily from lodging in town, though – and that can be a big if, because nearby parking during crowded weekends is even harder to find than fresh powder – the gondola is a sweet, scenic way to get up to Peak 8.
Not to mention back down again. When we finish for the day, the Stanfields are nowhere to be seen, but they had told us they might be found at the Maggie in the Village for make-your-own bloody Marys, or Downstairs at Eric’s, where Seb watches sports and Lisa likes the Bass ale on tap. And they might run into a few fellow Brits there, especially considering London is the third-largest population visiting Breckenridge from outside Colorado, after Chicago and Texas, according to Nicky DeFord, head of public relations for Breck.
“Breckenridge often feels like its full of people but not crazy crowded,” Seb said. “Sometimes there’s a wait at some of the little restaurants, but we always get in.”
Fortunately we’d made reservations at Relish, a newer restaurant next to the Blue River on Main Street. The dimly lit, second-floor space is packed, and we try not to linger too long over our meal because there are people hanging around the tiny bar watching hopefully for an abandoned table. Still, Relish is worthy of the name, and chef/owner Matthew Fackler makes creatively crafted New American food one longs to savor.
Afterward, we wander Main Street, where the Christmas lights still twinkle around the outlines of buildings and trees, giving the chilly air a warm glow. Enough people stream along the sidewalks that we jostle for space, but not so many that we don’t recognize the Stanfields coming out of Eric’s.
“Hello, hello!” Lisa calls. “Did you have a good day?” We did, and so did they. “Going back out tomorrow?” Oh, yes, all of us. We wished each other well and went our separate ways.
Such a small-town moment, right there on Main Street, Breckenridge.
Travel editor Kyle Wagner can be reached at 303-954-1599 or travel@denverpost.com.
INSIDER’S GUIDE
GET THERE
Breckenridge is 90 miles from Denver via Interstate 70 west to Exit 203. Continue south on Colorado 9 into town.
GET AROUND
Breckenridge has several free bus and shuttle systems, as well as the BreckConnect gondola to the ski areas. The gondola sits at the Transportation Center on North Park Avenue a block off North Main Street between Watson and French streets. Everyone rides free. Pick up a bus schedule at the Transit Center or visit townofbreckenridge.com to see the routes available and times.
STAY
Abbett Placer Inn, 205 S. French St., 970-453-6489,
abbettplacerbnb.com. The Abbett is a Victorian-style inn, but it looks like a very nice home. Breakfast and a hot tub, and one of the rooms has a balcony. Rates $130-$170 in winter.
Breck Inn, 11078 N. Colorado 9, 800-661-7614, breckinn.net. A comfy budget motel at the north entrance of Breck, across from the Rec Center, the Inn has rooms with king or two queen beds and an outdoor hot tub. On the Summit Stage bus line. Rates start at $209 weekends and $159 weeknights.
Park Avenue Lofts, 500 S. Park Ave., 888-333-4535, gwlodging
.com. One- to three-bedroom, two-bath condos with private hot tubs that look out at the peaks, along with an underground garage. The units are within walking distance of the Village, Main Street shops, the Quicksilver Lift for Peak 9 and the gondola. Rates start at $270 per night in season.
DINE
Breck Burger Bar, The Village, 970-543-3124. It’s the sides of crispy Tater Tots that distinguish a meal at the Burger Bar, along with the thick, meaty burgers that come topped with well-
thought-out items such as caramelized onions and sautéed mushrooms.
Relish, 137 S. Main St., 970-453-0989. Chef/owner Matthew Fackler takes food very seriously and sends out amazing plates of things such as trout in a lemon-caper goat cheese beurre blanc and pork stuffed with blue cheese and pears. Reasonable wine list and a warm, tasteful decor in this second-floor space.
Empire Burger, La Cima Mall, 2nd Floor, 970-453-2329. The friendliest staff, cold pints and many flat-screen TVs make Empire a welcome stop after a day on the slopes. The wings are super-spicy with a vinegary tang, the burgers are juicy and huge, and the fries and onion rings rock, and they come with amazing dipping sauces such as wasabi mayo and mango chutney. Save room for a banana split.
Columbine Café, 109 S. Main St., 970-547-4474. The line is out the door on weekends, but during the week it’s quieter in this smallish eatery and bakery. Check out the scramble, pretty much everything you can think of tossed with eggs and hash browns, and the enormous and tasty pancake the size of an LP.
Blue Moose, 540 S. Main St., 970-453-4859. Cash only. Sit at the counter for faster service at the casual Moose, where the huevos smothered in green chile and the French toast are good choices.
The Maggie, 575 S. Park Ave., 970-453-2000. The food isn’t the draw, the drinks are, including a nice Irish coffee and an inviting Bloody Mary bar where you are the mixologist, creating the perfect blend of tomato juice, veggies, spices and vodka.
Downstairs at Eric’s, 111 S. Main St., 970-453-1401,
downstairsaterics.com. The decor is beer signs and video games, but the sports bar is alive and well at Eric’s, which is always packed and always fun. Great wings, cheese fries, fried jalapeños and other snack items, and the entrees are all $6.
Daylight Donuts, 305 N. Main St., 970-453-2548. The cheap spot, Daylight has egg specials for under $4 and fresh coffee brewing nonstop.
SHOP
Breckenridge Barkery, 100 N. Main St., 970-547-1986,
breckenridgebarkery.com. You know you miss your dog, and he misses you too. And instead of imagining what part of your leather couch he’s chewing up to punish you while you’re off skiing, stop by here and get him a squirrel squeaker toy, or some kitschy clothing item to remind you of the wittle Woofer. There’s a small cat section, but really this is all about Bowzer.
Canary in a Clothes Mine, 114 S. Main St., 970-547-9007,
canaryinaclothesmine.com. Women’s and children’s boutique clothing store with one-of-a-kind items, such as cool rhinestone-embellished T-shirts, vintage jeans and embroidered pillowcases.
Hamlets Bookshoppe, 306 S. Main St., 970-453-8033, hamlets
books.com. It’s everything you require in a bookstore: a charming and cozy converted Victorian house, it even smells like books, and has a children’s nook all decked out and inviting, so you can sneak away and read some trashy novel in another room.
Peak-a-Boo Toys, 117 S. Main St., 970-453-4910. When it’s nearing zero outside, and the tykes are tired of wandering along Main Street, tuck into Peak-a-Boo, which has a mini playground and plenty of stuffed animals to keep them awed, at least until the attention span blows again. You also can pick up a game for back at the condo.
PLAY
Breckenridge Ski Resort is open until April 22 (weather permitting) from 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily. Lift tickets cost $81 (ages 4-12 $41). Terrain: 2,358 acres. 36 percent expert; 19 advanced; 31 intermediate; 14 beginner. 152 trails, 25 acres of terrain park.
Summit: 12,998 feet. Base: 9,600 feet Vertical: 3,398 feet. Longest run: 3.5 miles (Four O’Clock). Lifts: 1 8-person gondola; 2 high-speed 6-persons; 7 high-speed quads; 1 triple; 6 doubles; 4 surfaces; 8 carpets.
Lessons: Private lessons can be had for a price, and they are worth it, especially if you are trying to move up a level or if you are just starting out. Greg Rosin is Breckenridge Ski & Ride’s accredited kids instructor, and he has the kind of affable personality and easygoing style that kids immediately latch onto and want to learn from. Privates are $390 for a half-day or $560 for a full day. Call 888-576-2754 or visit breckenridge.com.
Rentals: Breckenridge Sports has six locations around the resort area, including at the Village base area and Peaks 8 and 9. You also can rent ahead at rentskis.com and just pick up the equipment, an even quicker option, and you can get 20 percent off that way too. Ski packages start at $31 per day; snowboards start at $36.
MORE INFORMATION
888-576-2754 or breckenridge.com.
