“Breakfast, Lunch, Tea,” by Rose Carrarini (Phaidon Press, 192 pages, $29.95)
Don’t be misled by the plain green cover of “Breakfast, Lunch, Tea.” This modest volume is a treasure trove of simple, healthful recipes from one of the hippest little restaurants in Paris, Rose Bakery in the 9th Arrondissement.
The spare design and austerely beautiful photos inside reflect the philosophy of Rose Carrarini, the British cook who taught Parisians the joys of well-made granola, pancakes, vegetable salads and even carrot cake.
There are soups and salads, quichelike tarts and simple main dishes like braised lamb shanks with eggplant and chickpeas in addition to the cookies (biscuits, in British parlance) and cakes one expects from a bakery. The emphasis is on good ingredients and careful preparation rather than tricky techniques.
Many cookbooks written for a European audience confound American cooks with their metric measurements and unfamiliar ingredient names, such as courgettes (zucchini) and caster (superfine) sugar. This one reduces confusion by putting the translations in parentheses in each recipe.
“Breakfast, Lunch, Tea” joins the mounting evidence that today’s British cooks have a lot to teach us about good food.
|Aleta Watson, San Jose Mercury News
CARROT AND SEED SALAD
Serves six.
Ingredients
1 cup sunflower or pumpkin seeds
1 tablespoon sunflower or canola oil (optional)
Pinch of salt
8 medium carrots, grated
For garnish:
2-3 tablespoons chopped chives
For the dressing:
1/2 cup lemon juice
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 tablespoon superfine sugar
About 3 tablespoons sunflower oil or olive oil
Directions
Preheat oven to 350 degrees and, if you wish, mix the seeds with 1 tablespoon oil. Season seeds with a pinch of salt, spread evenly on a baking tray and bake about 15 minutes, turning frequently, until they are lightly roasted and crisp. Set aside to cool.
Place carrots in serving bowl.
To make dressing, whisk together the lemon juice, 1 teaspoon salt, pepper and sugar in a bowl, then whisk in the sunflower or olive oil.
Check seasoning – you may need more salt, sugar or lemon juice.
Pour dressing over the carrots and mix well. Sprinkle with the chives and cooled seeds.
Serve.
Per serving: 251 calories, 7g protein, 19g fat ( 2g saturated), 18g carbohydrate, 450mg sodium, 0mg cholesterol, 3g dietary fiber.
From “Breakfast, Lunch, Tea,” by Rose Carrarini (Phaidon Press)
CRUSHED POTATO, CELERY AND HERB SOUP
Serves six.
Ingredients
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for garnish
3 onions, finely diced
3 stalks celery, finely diced
1 teaspoon salt
Pinch of ground black pepper
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 1/4 pounds russet potatoes, peeled and diced
6 cups vegetable stock or water
1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley
1/2 cup chopped fresh chives
Pinch of fresh thyme
Sprinkling of chopped fresh parsley and chives for garnish (optional)
Directions
Heat the oil in a saucepan and cook onions, celery, salt, pepper and garlic over low heat, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are soft but not browned, 5-7 minutes.
Add potatoes, cover well with stock or water, and simmer about 30 minutes. When potatoes are soft, take saucepan off the heat and use a fork to crush them. Using a fork is crucial, as we are not looking for a smooth soup – it must be textured.
Add the parsley, chives and thyme. Heat 10 minutes to soften the herbs. Taste and season if necessary.
Garnish with a swirl of oil and, if you wish, a sprinkling of chopped herbs.
Per serving: 201 calories, 3g protein, 10g fat ( 1g saturated), 27g carbohydrate, 1,355mg sodium, 0mg cholesterol, 3g dietary fiber.
From “Breakfast, Lunch, Tea,” by Rose Carrarini (Phaidon Press)
CARROT CAKE
It’s important to follow Carrarini’s instructions to the letter. The first time I made her carrot cake, I grated carrots in my food processor as usual, ignoring the specifications for finely grated carrots. I baked it as directed then tested it for doneness with a knife in the center of the cake. The blade came out clean and I removed the cake from the oven, only to find the center still almost raw when it had cooled.
On my second attempt, I grated the carrots on the smallest holes of a box grater and it was done within five minutes of the specified time. Just to be sure, though, I tested it with a wooden toothpick, knowing it would have enough texture to catch bits of wet batter.
The finished product was terrific, dense and moist but not oily, and less sweet than most carrot cakes. It disappeared quickly at the office.
This cake is a hit with Parisians and the best seller at Rose Bakery. Serves eight.
Ingredients
Unsalted butter, for greasing pan
4 eggs
1 cup superfine sugar
1 1/4 cups sunflower oil
9 medium carrots (about 1 pound) finely grated (about 3 3/4 cups)
2 cups flour, sifted
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 rounded teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 1/2 cups finely chopped walnuts
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
8 ounces cream cheese
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
1/2 – 3/4 cup confectioners’ sugar, depending on how sweet you like your icing
Directions
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9-inch round cake pan and line its base with parchment paper.
Beat eggs and superfine sugar until they are light and fluffy but not too white and meringue-like. Pour in the oil and beat for a few more minutes. Fold in carrots and then the flour, along with the cinnamon, baking powder, baking soda and salt.
Finally, fold in the walnuts.
Pour batter into prepared pan and bake about 45 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Remove from oven and cool cake in pan before turning it onto a plate.
To make the icing, beat the butter with the cream cheese for a few minutes till the mixture is smooth. Add vanilla and confectioners’ sugar. When cake is cold, spread icing over the top – it can be as smooth or rough as you like.
From “Breakfast, Lunch, Tea,” by Rose Carrarini (Phaidon Press)
