It’s been around for 23 years, but we’re betting lots of folks still haven’t heard about the T-Wa Inn on South Federal Boulevard.
And that’s a shame, because they are missing out on some of the freshest, tastiest Vietnamese food in Denver. On the other hand, that’s quite OK with those diners who hate to wait or are averse to crowds. It’s still enough of a lunchtime secret that those lucky enough to be within driving distance can enjoy a reasonably priced, top-quality lunch in relatively peaceful surroundings that leaves you both satisfied and clamoring for more.
The biggest problem is deciding what to order, since the menu is quite large. T-Wa helps you decide by offering lunch specials from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. If you’re still stuck, their wait staff is attentive and quick to offer advice on the menu, a combination of Vietnamese, Chinese and Thai dishes, both traditional and unconventional, some created with a tinge of French influence.
We started with Ga Nuong Xa Banh Trang (broiled chicken with lemon grass, $10.95) under the “Create Your Own Rolls” category, delicately seasoned meat sprinkled with crunchy peanuts and served with rice paper, crispy lettuce, bean sprouts, cucumber, fresh mint, pickled ginger and rice noodles.
The waiter showed us how to do it: Soak the rice paper in a bowl of hot water for a couple of minutes until it softens, then layer the noodles, lettuce, vegetables, meat and mint leaves on top, wrap it and dip it into the “house special sauce,” a light and delectable fish sauce. Even if you’ve flunked Wrapping 101, you can’t fail to enjoy the crispy, crunchy freshness of these rolls, either as an appetizer or main course.
We also tried the Cua Lot (soft shell crab, $12.95), marinated crab deep fried in a light batter and served over fresh lettuce and topped with cilantro, also presented with the fish sauce. We had heard that the crab was one of the restaurant’s specialties, and even though we both are seafood aficionados, found them somewhat bitter and unexceptional for the steep price.
Their Thai Hot & Sour Shrimp Soup ($2.75 a cup or $6.95 a bowl), seasoned with lemongrass, lime leaves and chili was zingy (“sinus-clearing,” said my companion) and as good as any served in other traditional Thai restaurants.
In addition to the menu items, T-Wa offers daily chalkboard specials ($5.95-$7.50). We tried marinated beef with vegetables, served over rice noodles, for $6.50.
At T-Wa, you’ll pay a bit more than fast-food “bowl” restaurants for rice and noodle dishes, wraps and Asian speciaties, but it will be worth it.
Staff writer Barbara Ellis can be reached at 303-954-1751 or bellis@denverpost.com.
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T-Wa Inn
Vietnamese, Thai and Chinese|555 S. Federal Blvd., Denver; 303-922-2378| $1.75-$16.95|Sunday-Thursday 11 a.m.-9:30 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11 a.m.-10 p.m.; Major credit cards, Diners Club
Front burner: Fresh ingredients and knowledgeable staff.
Back burner: Diners with a sweet tooth will be disappointed: There is a solitary dessert choice, and it was mediocre (four small slices of deep-fried bananas with chopped peanuts for $3).
