Variously tagged the healthiest city in America and the drunkest, Denver really becomes a conundrum after 11 p.m.
While there are innumerable bars to choose from – are there more bars than stoplights in this city? – we lack places to eat late. Generally, most people get sauced before midnight, then scurry home for sleep. But all that turning in early creates a demand void in the supply chain of late-night food options.
Sure, there are the nighttime standbys. But slogging in line for a breakfast burrito at Pete’s Kitchen eventually loses its luster. And really, most of us long ago shed the desire to share a midnight room at Denny’s with high school goth kids channeling Robert Smith through plates of Moons Over My Hammy.
But there’s hope: Late-night menus are sprouting up that offer more than re-heated chicken wings and Hot Pockets knock-offs. Among the crave-worthy moon-time spots is the Strelka Kitchen at Sputnik on South Broadway.
Named for the dog that auto-piloted the Soviet launch of the Sputnik 5 satellite into space in 1960, Strelka is largely the work of chef Matthew Paris. At Sputnik, Paris and company turned a South Broadway bar fixture into a legitimate spot to dine – and it’s open until 2 a.m.
Instead of the bar-standard fried mozzarella, Strelka has polenta sticks. No boring chicken wings here; find gyoza in its place. And go crazy with the Dengaru – grilled tofu with daikon, shitake mushrooms and a miso glaze.
There are French fries, yes. But these are sweet potato fries – and the most-ordered item on the menu. Pair them with a slew of dipping sauces, the best being sweet habanero jam, wasabi mayo and raita.
The Cuban pork sandwich wasn’t too salty, with fine swiss cheese and pickles that snapped. It was served on the same torta roll that houses a peanut chicken sandwich and an enormous veggie burger, which fell apart like a Sloppy Joe. It’s not a sandwich, it’s a meal!
The veggie ramen (also available with pork) came in an enormous bowl filled with a dark broth of whole porcinis, firm tofu, hard-boiled eggs, sesame seeds and enough garlic to make the bearded guy four stools down the bar ask about the smell.
Strelka’s best is the Arapes, an Ecuadoran-style appetizer of layered corn cakes, crumbled queso blanco and fanned slices of avocado, all presented way too keenly for any old bar.
And, of course, there’s beer on tap and bartenders handing out martinis.
If Denver’s riddle is how to find food late in a demanding drinking schedule, Strelka has an answer.
Nick Groke can be reached at 303-954-1015 or ngroke@denverpost.com
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Strelka Kitchen at Sputnik
Top-shelf bar food|3 South Broadway, 720-570-4503| $2-$7.35|Open daily, 11 a.m.-2 a.m. All credit cards.
Front burner: Small plates, big plates, terrific libations.
Back burner: It’s a bar first, restaurant second, so avoid peak times.
