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El Potrero Mexican Restaurant & Nightclub’s menu includes dozens of favorite Mexican and American offerings and a few words of advice.

A caution notice for Tacos de Tripa reads thusly: “Gringo warning: This is intestine.”

It’s always good to know what you’re eating.

Behind the strains of Mexican music, you can hear the chefs occasionally clanging pots, busily preparing entrees. Pleasant smells waft out, and there are always a few regulars hanging out at the bar, engaged in eager conversation.

It’s a comfortable place to spend an hour or so.

Chips are served with the requisite salsa, but also are accompanied by a creamy, spiced bean dip that got raves at our table. The guacamole appetizer wasn’t weighted down with sour cream or unnecessary spices and disappeared well before lunch arrived.

Each main dish comes to the table piping hot, fresh, and served on thick, brown, hand-painted ceramic plates.

Burritos bulge with stuffing, and are coated with just enough green chile to add flavor but not drown the main dish. The chicken fajitas, served with hot-off-the-stove tortillas, are delicately spiced, not masqueraded in packaged sauces.

The gorditas ($6), served on 6-inch, homemade corn tortillas, were flavored with sautéed peppers and onions. Choose between chicken, chopped into fine pieces, or pork or beef.

These dishes were all mildly spiced, but if you like things caliente, the gracious staff will accommodate. A friend who had dined at the restaurant guarantees there are plenty of spicier dishes available.

The prices are reasonable. Where else can you get a taco, green chile burrito and enchilada plate for just $6.99? Even the refillable sodas are still in the $1 range.

Burgers start at $5.50, or try the liver and onions, pork chops, or steak. There are many more American dishes to choose from, and many types of fish, including the tempting orange roughy in hot chipotle sauce (Huachinango a la diabla, $12.99).

Think the tilapia ($8.50) might be a good choice? A menu statement forewarns the squeamish: “Gringo warning: The head is still on.”

Sometimes the head is the only thing that remains. There are no overly sequined sombreros or serapes decorating the walls. Instead, the dining area is encircled with stuffed animals – mostly heads – mounted on wooden bases. Some taxidermist also decided it would be nice to stuff an entire calf and a chicken and a few other critters. (Maybe the management should consider a different type of warning on the menu.)

The most David Lynchian decoration, however, is the white horse – actually, just the front half – hanging on the wall. If a fish head bothers you, then you’ll definitely want to turn your back to Thunder’s cousin.

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El Potrero

Mexican | 320 S. Birch St., Glendale, 303-388-8889|$1.75-$15.99|open daily at 10 a.m.; all credit cards.

Front burner: Easygoing atmosphere, big patio to idle away summer hours.

Back burner: Plopped down in the middle of asphalt and cement, so don’t count on a view.

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