Pubs seem to be all the rage, with establishments of every kind eagerly trying to work the word into their name regardless, in many cases, of how little they have to do with an actual British or Irish public house.
Sometimes lost in this scurry for faddishness is Pints Pub, which has become such a Golden Triangle fixture after 14 years that it can get taken for granted. That’s unfortunate, because there is simply nothing else like this English-style establishment in Denver or the rest of the country for that matter.
I admit that I’m probably a little biased. I have lunch at Pints a few times a week and stop in occasionally in the evening for an adult beverage and the homemade crisps. But there are undeniable reasons to keep coming back – it’s a comfortable, inexpensive restaurant with consistently good food.
The pub draws a healthy dose of tourists and Denver Art Museum visitors (the institution is less than two blocks away) and an eclectic mix of regulars, including a strong contingent of sheriffs, judges, lawyers and city officials.
Then there’s Doc, who can often be seen at the end of the bar catching up on the London Times, which is always available just inside the door. He, along with Lisa, one of the pub’s veteran waitresses, are English emigrés who add a spot of native color.
Anyone who bellies up to the bar is in for lively conversation that can range from the nuances of a word in that day’s newspaper to politics to a book that someone is reading to the pros and cons of the Broncos’ latest acquisition.
Making sure the banter never grows stale is Scott, the owner and lunchtime barman. He’s also responsible for assembling the pub’s eye-popping selection of more than 250 single malt whiskys, the largest outside of Great Britain.
For patrons whose tastes run more in the direction of beer, the pub brews six in-house offerings, which, to my tastebuds, are as good or better than any other Denver microbrews. I like the Phonebox Amber and Alchemy E.S.B., but connoisseurs often prefer the hand-pumped, cask-conditioned ales.
While everything I’ve mentioned so far is important, the top reason to come is the food. Everybody claims to have the best burger, but Pints’ Wimpy, made from hormone- and antibiotic-free beef, really can compete with anybody’s. One of my favorites is the Wimpy Bleu ($8.45), with blue-cheese crumbles and sautéed onions.
I also frequently order the always-tasty Highlander Chicken sandwich ($7.95), with a skinless chicken breast marinated in a honey-mustard sauce. And on a cold day, nothing beats the hearty lamb stew ($8.45).
The pub’s fish and chips are a point of contention with some, because the fish is not deep-fried. But it’s hard to see how anyone can fuss, when the alternative is moist, grilled salmon with chips and a small salad ($8.45).
There’s nothing newfangled or chic about Pints. It’s just a good, old-fashioned pub, and that’s a rare find.
| Pints Pub
$6.95-$8.95|Visa, Mastercard, Discover |11 a.m. to midnight Mondays through Saturdays and 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Sundays
Front burner: Great burgers and the best selection of single-malt whiskys outside of Great Britain.
Back burner: Although recently bolstered with the addition of smoked salmon, the appetizer list still seems limited.
