They have a saying in Spain: “Mañana, mañana.” It’s usually uttered when some random duty pops up, getting in the way of fun times. For the easygoing Spaniards, almost anything can wait until tomorrow.
It’s easy to fall into the mañana spirit at The Mediterranean Restaurant in Boulder. Walk through the door, and the day’s annoyances suddenly seem less prickly. Bathed in warm lighting with conversations humming and waiters hustling, The Med brings on a sigh of relief.
And it only gets better from there.
The first page of The Med’s huge menu is all tapas — small, affordable appetizers meant to be ordered several at a time. None are more than $6, so each diner can pick a couple to try.
Though tapas are a Spanish tradition, the Med’s versions follow the coastline of its namesake.
The muestreo ($5), a trio of Middle Eastern treats, comes with baba ghannouj, tabbouleh and an interesting black-bean hummus. The baba is thinner than most versions of the eggplant spread, but somehow it’s as rich-tasting as butter. The hummus and tabbouleh are just fine, but it’s almost impossible not to mop up every drop of baba ghannouj with the accompanying pita bread.
The bruschetta ($5), fried artichoke hearts ($5) and ham-and-tomato bread ($4.50) are other worthy plates to mix and match, though on one visit the latter’s prosciutto was a little flavorless.
With so many choices, it’s tempting to make a meal out of tapas and house wine ($5 a glass). Try to hold back and save room for a main course, though.
Heat-seekers will love the “Speziata” pizza ($8.95). The wood-fired crust is brushed with olive oil and roasted garlic, then topped with fontina, jalapeños, chili flakes and chicken. Cooling slices of avocado rest on top.
Maybe it sounds a little odd, but it’s completely addictive. If you don’t order it yourself, be prepared to fight for a slice.
Dinner entrees run from the salmon “club sandwich” with wasabi pesto and bacon ($10.50) to a selection of share-able paellas — chicken, veggie or seafood ($11.95-$13.95).
Saltimbocca alla Romana ($15.95) is the perfect cold-weather dinner: A mozzarella-coated slice of pork loin rests serenely atop a mattress of fluffy mashed potatoes. Wilted salad rests nearby. The whole plate is drizzled with tangy tomato-sherry sauce. One bite and you feel like you’re peacefully wrapped in a soft blanket in a house you love.
By the time the meal — usually well-orchestrated by the server — is over, you feel like you’ve had a massage. Mañana seems like it’s going to be a good day.
The Mediterranean Restaurant
Tapas/Mediterranean. 1002 Walnut St., Boulder, 303-444-5335. . $10.50-$27.95. Sunday-Wednesday, 11 a.m.- 10 p.m.; Thursday-Saturday 11 a.m.-11p.m.
Front burner: The patio. With its fountain, trees and tilework, it’s a little slice of Barcelona.
Back burner: It can get very busy — and very loud.
Another reivew
Osteria Marco
Larimer Square’s already-bulging roster of above-par eateries now includes Osteria Marco, the latest member in local celeb-chef Frank Bonnano’s hat-trick of popular Denver restaurants (which also includes Mizuna and Luca D’Italia). Bring a date, order a pizza to share and a couple of glasses of wine, then decide whether to continue your meal here or wander the holiday-festooned block to find your next course. Tucker Shaw
