I was certain it was my first visit to Pesce Fresco. I’d never even been on this stretch of South Quebec Street before.
And yet on that first visit the place felt so familiar.
**RATING | Very Good
Familiar is one of those conditions that, depending on your mood, can be either an irritation or a salve. On that aimless Tuesday night, familiar sounded pretty good.
It’d been a bit of a day — not bad, just long — and I’d finally ticked off my final errand down in the Tech Center. I was bushed, but I was hungry.
Lacking the mojo to tuck in my shirt and go someplace fancy, I also wasn’t up for a megachain with pictograph menus and happy-face-buttoned waitrons, either.
Where to go? I’d have to refire my brain to come up with the answer, a daunting prospect. But relief was just around an unexpected (OK, wrong) turn onto Quebec, which brought Pesce Fresco into view. Ding.
Homey and warmly lit, the dining room and bar were peopled (not packed) with couples and groups nestled comfortably in their chairs like they belonged there. No rubbernecking, no stiff shoulders, no awkward posture.
Rather than fuss with actually reading the menu on that first visit, I deferred to our server, who brought an appetizer she called “Gorgonzola Cheesecake.”
I rolled my eyes at the gimmicky name, but quickly devoured the warm dish of gorgonzola, caramelized onions, and crisp-fried mushrooms, spreading the sweet-savory goo on bits of bread and breathing in the earthy aroma of the cheese before gobbling it down, smiling as I chewed and following each mouthful with a guzzle of zinfandel.
Later, she delivered a simple dish of linguine tossed with a buttery, meaty veal sauce and salty Parmesan cheese. On a different kind of night, I might have wanted another layer of flavor in this soulful ragu, perhaps the piquancy of pepper or zing of citrus, but tonight, its strength was its simplicity. I was glad I chose a glass of pinot noir for this course; a cabernet would have suffocated it.
The cioppino, which in the scrutiny of hindsight could have had sharper edges and defter seasoning, also went down smoothly that night — mussels, scallops, shrimp and whitefish politely sharing a bowl of sherry-spiked tomato broth.
Protests against dessert were fruitless, as our insistent server lay a dish of warm sticky toffee pudding in front of us. I was hesitant. I’d had a pleasant meal that needed no punctuation, and besides, I’ve grown desperately weary of this trendy dessert. But I didn’t stop spooning in the soft, sweet date-cake until the plate was clean.
I slept well.
Subsequent visits to Pesce Fresco have been less even. The service, so effortless that first night, has ranged from distracted to just-focused-enough, and several dishes have disappointed. The chicken saltimboca (their spelling) proved clunky and overly sagey. The rigatoni with grilled sausage, wimpy and banal. The chocolate mousse cake, waxy and disappointing.
Then again, the tenderloin of beef, grilled and laid over a bed of fettucine carbonara, was luxurious and indulgent (albeit a cardiac time bomb), and the lobster ravioli topped with sweet crawfish and draped in a tranquil cream sauce was, if unflashy, plenty yummy.
Most nights, the kitchen offers three or four fish specials (the place is called Pesce Fresco, after all). While they sometimes do too much to the filets (as on one recent night, when a blameless chunk of cod was bludgeoned by pancetta-flecked cannelini beans and a smoked date coulis), many of the preparations are unexpected revelations (one recent score: sauteed grouper with roasted sweet potatoes, Brussels sprouts and cranberry).
Pesce Fresco has an extensive wine list, including a robust roster of by-the-glass offerings and a few flights. There are also pairing suggestions with nearly every dish on the menu. Some are more inspired than others, but the relatively affordable offerings make this a safe space for experimentation. Engage your server on this topic.
Bottom line? It’s worth a spin or two through the menu to identify the dishes you like at Pesce Fresco. And then, on those nights when the familiar appeals, stop in for some gorgonzola cheesecake and a glass or two of wine.
Tucker Shaw: 303-954-1958 or dining@denverpost.com
Pesce Fresco
Italian. 6600 S. Quebec St., Centennial, 303-290-9705,
** RATING (Very Good)
Atmosphere: Homey, warm neighborhood dining room, small bar area. Muted but friendly atmosphere.
Service: Sometimes more efficient than others, but always personable.
Wine: Lengthy wine list, with many by-the-glass options. Plenty of affordable bottles.
Plates: Appetizers $7-$14; main dishes $16-$29
Hours: 5-9:30 p.m. Monday-Friday, 5-10 p.m. Saturday, closed Sunday.
Details: Reservations encouraged but not always necessary. Parking lot. All major credit cards.
Three visits.
Our star system:
****: Excellent
***: Great
**: Very Good
*: Good
