Most people wouldn’t go searching for good, cheap barbecue off I-25 and Dry Creek Road — particularly if you’re from Denver. But stumbling upon Bono’s Pit Bar-B-Q turned out to be a memorable pitstop.
It’s nothing fancy, with an open pit viewable from the dining room area. Go on an empty stomach and forget the diet, as there’s truly no sense eating a salad at a BBQ joint, though they are offered.
Bono’s is Southern all the way, with appetizers such as fried okra ($3.99) and fried squash ($3.99). There’s also corn nuggets ($3.99), onion rings ($5.99) and Bar-B-Q Cheese Fries topped with beef, pork or turkey ($5.99).
We skipped those as the smell wafting from the pit oven and the smoked BBQ combo platters made us jump directly to the meal.
The Brunswick Stew ($4.99), however, seemed interesting enough to warrant a taste test. Unfortunately, it was available only in the bowl size. We still ordered it, although our waiter couldn’t truly tell us what made the beef stew “Brunswick.”
Despite the nice chunks of beef, potatoes, green peas and carrots, the base of the stew had a slightly citric aftertaste. The base also seemed to blur the taste of the meat, which perhaps wasn’t slow-cooked in the pit. When the server took the bowl away, we wished we had had a good cup of chili instead.
From the basic barbecued chicken,to the not-so-basic barbecued turkey, Bono’s doesn’t disappoint — if you order the right thing. The chicken was average, but the baby back rib platter ($14.99) was great, with soft meat falling off the bone.
The reason to go to Bono’s, however, is the pulled pork. Often a tough dish to pull off well (pun intended), Bono’s does a superb job, making it worthy enough to call home to Denver. With seasoned, slow-cooked meat just right and the right mix of sweet and tangy sauce, Bono’s pulled pork was succulent and nearly melted in our mouths.
While there are not big expectations for side dishes at your local BBQ joint, Bono’s surprised us with flavorful baked beans and homemade coleslaw that didn’t come from a large tub from the local supermarket. Even the green beans were well-seasoned — peppery with bits of meat, potato and onion.
Don’t be disappointed when your side dishes come in small cups. Order the platters ($9.99 to $14.99) and get unlimited sides. Our second order of sweet potato fries was better and fresher than the first.
Bono’s is a good place for families. While a three-meat combo platter can feed two people, there are also “Bono’s Family Feasts,” which feed three to six people and come with a choice of meat and two large side orders. It’s probably safe to assume that Bono’s has a thriving carryout business, with its proximity to the highway.
There’s a sports theme going on, particularly teams from Florida, as Lou Bono opened the first Bono’s in Jacksonville in 1949, according to the menu. Its atmosphere makes it a good place to watch a game — and lick your fingers.
Kimberly S. Johnson: 303-954-1088 or kjohnson@denverpost.com
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