There are dozens of ways to make these puffs, but no technique is easier than simply dropping the batter by tablespoons onto a baking sheet, then letting the puffs crisp in the oven after they’ve baked. For the right texture, do not use a food processor to make this batter, and if you want to lighten your gougeres (and enhance their flavor even more), use equal amounts of shredded Gruyere and grated parmesan cheese. From “The Bacon Cookbook,” by James Villas, makes about 36 puffs.
Ingredients
1 cup water
8 tablespoons (1 stick) butter, cut into pieces
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 cup all-purpose flour
4 large eggs
1/2 pound slab bacon, rind removed, finely diced
1 cup shredded Gruyere cheese
Directions
In a heavy saucepan, combine water, butter and salt and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low, add flour and beat with a wooden spoon till a ball of dough forms. Transfer dough to a mixing bowl and add eggs one at a time, beating with an electric mixer on high speed till batter is just thick enough to hold soft peaks. Transfer batter to a bowl, cover with plastic wrap and chill briefly.
In a large skillet, fry diced bacon over moderate heat until crisp; drain on paper towels.
Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Butter a large baking sheet.
Fold cheese and bacon into prepared batter till well blended, then drop by tablespoons onto prepared baking sheet. Bake puffs 30 minutes, turn off heat and let stand till they are golden and crisp, about 10 minutes. Serve puffs warm.
Wine ideas:
Gougeres go with anything, from beer to red wines (especially when they are enriched with bacon). If you want to stay true to their roots, look for a white Burgundy — Joseph Drouhin’s Macôn-Villages is a good deal at $13, or search out an aligote, a rare grape in Burgundy that makes mouthwateringly crisp white wines. AP de Villaine makes the model, which runs about $22.
Tara Q. Thomas
