In the markets of Yangon, Myanmar (formerly Burma), Madhur Jaffrey was “struck by the bins of dark, aromatic, roasted chili powders, some of them with seeds, many made from short, stocky, dried red chiles. It is this powder that gives some Burmese foods their dark red color,” she writes in “From Curries to Kebabs: Recipes From the Modern Indian Spice Trail.” Serves 4.
Ingredients
CURRY SOUP
1 medium onion, chopped and 1 medium onion, sliced into very fine half-rings
2-inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and chopped
4 cloves garlic, chopped
1/4 cup water
12 ounces boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chickpea flour
4 cups chicken broth
4 tablespoons corn or peanut oil
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 teaspoons bright red paprika
1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 cup coconut milk, from a well-shaken can
NOODLES
12 to 16 ounces cooked lo-mein-type Chinese noodles, rice noodles such as bahn pho or rice-sticks, or angel hair, capellini or spaghettini
ACCOMPANIMENTS
A bowl of crisply fried noodles (these are sold by many Chinese grocers — you may also make them yourself by throwing well-separated lo-mein noodles into medium-hot oil until they are gold and crisp)
Lime or lemon wedges
4 green onions, cut crosswise into thin rounds
2 hard-boiled eggs (duck or chicken), peeled and cut crosswise into slices
Very lightly roasted coarse chili powder
Directions
Curry soup: Put the chopped onion, ginger, garlic and water into a blender. Blend until smooth.
Spread out the chicken on a plate. Sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper, turning to distribute seasoning.
Put chickpea flour in a bowl. Very slowly, add 1 cup broth, mixing thoroughly as you do so.
Pour oil into a wide, medium pan and set over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add chicken. Stir and fry until chicken begins to brown. Remove with a slotted spoon. Add sliced onions and fry, stirring, until they begin to turn brown at the edges, 2-4 minutes. Add cayenne pepper, paprika and turmeric. Stir once, then add chicken with the juices that have accumulated on the plate, and remaining 3 cups of broth. Stir.
Now pour in, through a strainer, the chickpea and broth mixture, and stir again. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, and simmer gently, uncovered, for 15 minutes. Taste for salt — much will depend on whether your broth is presalted. Add what is needed. Add coconut milk. Stir to mix and return to a simmer.
Serve with noodles and accompaniments.
Wine ideas:
A gentle, rich curry, this can handle all sorts of wines. Light whites such as riesling are the most obvious choices, but a red could make a warming companion. Make it a light one, such as a beaujolais, and chill it lightly before serving.
Tara Q. Thomas
