DUBLIN, Ireland — In 1988, Dublin was bohemian and rough around the edges. A little bit scary, even.
In 1998, Dublin was cool and interesting, with a slightly cleaner and less gritty image.
In 2008, Dublin is a world-class city, booming with vibrant life, economic prosperity, educated youth and uninhibited culture.
Oh yes, the Celtic Tiger is indeed mighty.
It wasn’t long ago that Ireland was among Europe’s poorest countries. But after joining the European Union and making key financial decisions over the past 15 years — a period dubbed “the Celtic Tiger” — Ireland is now among Europe’s wealthiest nations.
You feel the changes the minute your sneakers hit the rain-smoothed pavement in the capital city. Shopping districts are abuzz and always crowded. New monuments stand especially forceful, making a statement in their towering silence. Parks are well-groomed and, yes, 40 shades of green. Public transportation is faster, more convenient and serving new neighborhoods. Museums, libraries and theaters are marked clearly and attractively, beckoning with regular free days and generous discounts to students and seniors.
Calling it “gentrification” seems like a misguided understatement. This is a makeover so gigantic that no Mac specialist or “Trading Spaces” host could ever dream of taking it on. “Extreme Makeover: City Edition”? Nope, bigger than that. Even the River Liffey seems brighter, greener.
Yes, life is good in Ireland.
Granted, you’re paying for this world- class experience.
It used to be that Dublin was a cheaper, easier little brother to the behemoth that is London. But while Dublin and its potent euro is still less expensive than London and its brawny pound, the gap is closing.
Ultimately it’s a good thing. Dublin is fulfilling its promise as one of the world’s great cities. The Irish people have always been among Europe’s warmest and most welcoming, and now their capital is growing into a more complimentary welcome mat for travelers looking for that true Irish experience.
After numerous trips to Dublin — visiting family and friends, and making new friends — here are some of our favorite things about Ireland’s sparkling welcome center on the River Liffey. We’ll give you two options in each category, but we’ll gush only about our preferred option.
DRINK
Guinness Storehouse and St. James Gate Brewery vs. the Jameson Distillery
The winner: St. James Gate Brewery, hands down
Save yourself the cost of touring the Jameson Distillery, which isn’t even a distillery anymore (those facilities were moved down to County Cork years ago.) Guinness, on the other hand, is still brewed in Dublin Town Centre. And the tour at St. James Gate is fascinating and thoughtfully curated, taking you through the history of the stout while also teaching you a thing or two about how it reaches that chocolatey color.
TOUR
Bus tours vs. walking tour
The winner: Walking
In some cities, you’ll get your money out of those red, double-decker tour buses. But Dublin still is one of Europe’s most walkable capital cities. Chances are you already have a solid guidebook — we recommend those by Lonely Planet and Rick Steves for independent-minded traveling on the cheap — so flip to one of their easy-to-follow walking tours, and take off at your own pace. Of course, don’t be afraid to stray from the map. That’s the whole point of having a map, no?
SEE
The Spire of Dublin vs. Trinity College
The Winner: Trinity College
The Spire of Dublin, standing tall and lean over the history-rich O’Connell Street, is one of the more underwhelming sights you’ll see in this town, which is otherwise rich in architecture. Don’t go out of your way to see this eh of a monument, but chances are a bus, taxi or walking tour will take you past it. (And you’ll see what we mean.) Instead, find your way to Trinity College and its many treasures. One of the seven ancient universities of the British Isles, Trinity College is known and celebrated for many things — stunning architecture, a rich royal history and stellar academics programs. But what tourists often find most interesting about the college is that its old library is home to the Book of Kells, a gorgeous illuminated manuscript dating to the Middle Ages. It may take some persuading to get your friends to pay an entrance fee and spend a few hours to see a book, but they’ll thank you after they’ve seen the Book of Kells’ intricately illustrated pages.
STARE
National Gallery of Ireland vs. St. Patrick’s Cathedral
The Winner: National Gallery of Ireland
Of course you want to walk by St. Patrick’s at some point. Ireland’s largest church is also one of its most beautiful — and there’s also the fun footnote that Jonathan Swift was once the dean of the Cathedral. But the National Gallery is one of the most underrated museums in Europe. As with England’s National Gallery, there is no admission charge. And while this museum doesn’t have the star power of Britain’s mammoth gallery complex, it does feature a potent collection of international works alongside some of the most fascinating and beautiful Irish paintings. While Irish writers are celebrated the world over, the country’s painters have always taken a back seat to their European peers. But after an hour or five cruising these beautiful halls, it’s easy to talk about their schools of painting with reverence.
STAY
Browne’s Townhouse vs. some random hostel next to the bus station
The Winner: Browne’s Townhouse, of course (22 St. Stephen’s Green, )
Dublin is a city that caters to youthful travelers, and finding a hostel within spitting distance of the bus station (the destination for most airport shuttles) is easier than counting the leaves on a shamrock. But why not splurge a little to stay in one of Dublin’s more historic Georgian ‘hoods? With 17,000 hotel rooms, you won’t have to look hard. Life doesn’t get any sweeter than morning tea at Browne’s Townhouse, an 18th-century manor right across from St. Stephen’s Green. It comes complete with Wi-Fi and era-specific furniture, but book early, as its 17 rooms fill up fast. Oh, and don’t forget to try the excellent Browne’s Brasserie — handily located downstairs.
DINE
Mermaid Cafe vs. The Vaults
The Winner: Mermaid Cafe (68-70 Dame St., mermaid.ie)
The Vaults is situated in an amazing space — the basement of the old train station is almost as eerie as it sounds. But the food can’t compare to that of Mermaid Cafe. Sure, the Mermaid is in the Temple Bar neighborhood — and on a bustling corner, as well. But the delightful food — always including some seafood prepared with creativity and love — is worth whatever hassle you endure waiting for a table or straining to hear your companion. Bring your appetite, a sense for culinary adventure and your pocketbook. Eating like this, especially in this new Dublin, isn’t cheap.
SHOP
Grafton Street vs. Henry Street
The Winners: Both
They’re so close to each other, there’s no reason to not hit both of these shopping meccas. Grafton Street is where the trendier stores reside. You’re looking for that kitschy, Eurotrash pair of sneakers or that very European scarf that won’t hit stores in the States for another six months? This is where to go. Henry Street, on the other hand, is the place for the classic department store experience. Taking a midafternoon stroll through the crowded aisles at Arnotts is a distinctively Irish experience.
PLAY
Temple Bar vs. the more traditional Irish megapubs such as Doheny & Nesbitt’s
The Winner: Neither
Yes, the Temple Bar district is the hot spot for clubs and trendy bars. Yes, Doheny & Nesbitt’s and other megapubs (including the Brazen Head) are world-famous Irish watering holes.
But of all the places in the world, you don’t have to work hard to find a fine pint in Dublin. Pick and choose your pubs at random, and soak up the local flavor. After all, if you wanted to hang out with a bunch of Americans in an Irish bar, you could to do that right here in Denver.
Ricardo Baca: 303-954-1394 or rbaca@denverpost.com
