When I review a restaurant, I generally go three times, on different days of the week, in different groups of two or four or more. I intentionally vary my experiences to get a broader, and deeper, sense of the place than one visit would deliver.
But sometimes I’m compelled to make more visits, like I did to O’s Restaurant. Five times, to be exact.
I’ve been so often because I’ve been chasing the storied cuisine of Ian Kleinman, one of our most vigorous local practitioners of molecular gastronomy. (See Food Court on 3D for more on molecular gastronomy.)
My first trip to the sprawling O’s (on the striking first floor of the Westin Westminster, all windows and views and neo-rustic finishes) was on a weekday, for lunch. The molecular tasting menu wasn’t available. No surprise, it was lunch. I had a very good burger and left happy.
Visit 2 was for an early-week dinner, when I learned that the tasting menu was served Thursdays through Saturdays only. Again, no problem, I understand. My prime rib was nicely prepared and whimsically presented, and I enjoyed it.
My next visit was on a Thursday, tasting menu night. Only it wasn’t. Sure, there was a molecular demo going on in the lobby out front (something dramatic involving marshmallows and liquid nitrogen, I think), but we were told there were no molecules in the dining room.
Frustrated? Yes. But I was soothed by a delicate fillet of trout, which, was, if elaborately plated, lovely. By now I knew that the kitchen could cook. Conventional food, at least.
Next, a Friday. Our server told us he “had to check” on whether the tasting menu was available. Eventually it was explained to us that the menu was available only if we “really” wanted it, but because of an upcoming holiday brunch later in the weekend, the kitchen wasn’t pushing it. A bad omen; we skipped it. Nonetheless, I enjoyed my goat cheese wontons and pork loin.
Finally, on my fifth visit, a score: the tasting menu was available. I ordered it without hesitation.
And it was a rewarding meal. Meaty escargots touched with a deep, piquant curry astride a pea puree and impossibly thin and crispy carrot slices. Soft lasagna laced with briney shrimp essence and draped in layers with whipped corn, ricotta and tomato. Delicate sous-vide chicken flavored with apricot and perched over jalapeño-flecked rice.
Each dish was captivating visually, well-considered, soulfully produced and tasty. It wasn’t as daring as I’d hoped for, or as revelatory, but it was expertly executed by an engaged, artistic craftsman, and indicative of great potential. It was a meal I hadn’t had before.
And at $50 per, a good value.
My dinners left me knowing this: Kleinman’s cooking — conventional and otherwise — is in Colorado’s top tier. But Kleinman’s talent, and its potential impact, is hindered by the restaurant it’s displayed in.
Physically, I believe Kleinman’s food, particularly his edgier dishes, would play better in a smaller, sparer environment designed to frame, rather than obscure, the rightful focal point of the room: the food.
It should also be served with much greater attention to the details of service and a more interested, better-organized, more seasoned crew.
With every staffer, I’ve had to work too hard to wrestle information about the ingredients or characteristics of a dish I’m curious about. Wine has, on every visit, been grossly overpoured into totally inappropriate glasses. Bar service has been spotty at best.
These would be quibbles in a restaurant with smaller ambitions, but O’s aims high and should know better.
I can understand why O’s doesn’t roll out the molecular menu every night. They’d never sell enough to make it work for the bottom line.
So it’s a good thing for business that Kleinman delivers on the money-makers — the steaks, the burgers.
But Kleinman has the bravado and skill to helm a much more interesting restaurant, to deep-plant the Colorado flag on the molecular gastronomy landscape.
If only he had the perfect stage.
O’s Restaurant
Contemporary. 10600 Westminster Blvd., Westminster, 303-410-5000 VVery Good/Great
Atmosphere: Massive, airy dining room with several seating areas. Generous booths and tables.
Service: Well-intentioned but shaky.
Wine: Serviceable list with a few good values. They need better glasses.
Plates: $20 and up.
Hours: 6:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Friday,; 7 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.
Details: Reservations useful on weekends. Call ahead to make sure tasting menu is available. Parking lot. Wheelchair accessible.
Five visits.
Our star system: : Excellent. : Great. : Very Good. : Good.
