The La Plata Range, a compact mountain range located northwest of Durango, is one of my favorites. The range offers challenging scrambling routes as well as moderate “walk-ups.” This week we explore probably the most popular peak in the area, Hesperus Mountain.
At 13,232 feet, Hesperus is the highest peak in the La Plata range. As you approach the mountain from the west, the mass of Hesperus dominates the view. The mountain is well protected by rough ridges on all but its west side. This west ridge provides a moderate way to climb the peak using non-maintained climber’s trails.
Hesperus and neighboring Centennial Peak are easily recognizable by their striking banded appearance, while the peak between — named for Dwight Lavender, one of Colorado’s early mountaineers — consists of needlelike rock spires. You may want to bag Centennial Peak while you’re in the area, a relatively easy ascent from Sharkstooth Pass via its north ridge. Lavender Peak is significantly harder to climb and should only be attempted by experienced scramblers.
Hike description
There are two ways to access the west ridge of Hesperus Mountain; both start at the Sharkstooth Trailhead and follow a trail southeast then west along the North Fork of the West Mancos River. The first option leaves the trail and heads directly up a shallow scree gully to reach the west ridge. The longer but less-steep route crosses a large rock glacier north of the west ridge and intersects the ridge farther west at an elevation of 11,150 feet. Either of these routes works, though my preference is to use the first option, which I’ll describe here. The map shows both options.
Two trails start at the trailhead parking area. Don’t take the Sharkstooth Pass Trail that heads east, but instead take the trail heading initially southeast down toward the creek. Cross the North Fork of the West Mancos River at mile 0.7, where the trail cuts back to the west. Continue on the trail for 0.2 of a mile farther to a point where a small drainage crosses the trail at mile 0.9. Leave the trail here and head south, following a faint climbers trail marked with occasional cairns.
At tree line you’ll have a good view of your objective, a shallow scree gully aimed straight up to the west ridge. Rock hop to the start of the gully and follow it south as it climbs up to reach the west ridge of Hesperus at 12,170 feet at mile 1.8.
Turn east and follow the trail as it heads up. At 12,400 feet a steeper section can be climbed either on loose, gravelly trails just right of the ridge crest, or by staying more directly on the ridge and climbing some easy, Class 3 rock steps. Continue to the summit and enjoy the views.
The Details
Getting to the trailhead: From the town of Mancos on U.S. 160 (approximately 20 miles west of Durango), turn north on Colorado 184. After 0.3 mile, turn right on Forest Service Road 561 (County Road 42) at the sign for Transfer Campground and the Sharkstooth Trailhead. Reach Transfer Campground at the 10-mile point. Stay on Forest Service Road 561 for 2 more miles, following the signs, until half a mile past the Aspen Ranger Station. Take a right turn onto Forest Service Road 350 (again, well signed). After 4 miles, the road forks again, the left fork being Forest Service Road 351 and the right fork Forest Service Road 350. Stay right; 2.5 miles farther the road forks again. Take the right fork, signed to the Sharkstooth Trailhead, which you will reach in 1.5 miles. This last mile and a half may be a little rough for some passenger cars.
Hike statistics: From the parking area to the summit of Hesperus Mountain you’ll gain 2,450 feet in 2.4 miles.
Difficulty: Mostly off-trail hiking (sometimes following climbers’ trails) on talus and scree, with possibly a couple of short, steeper sections.
USGS Quad: La Plata, CO
