Consider it a wax race to the end of the season.
After a winter of abuse, your boards probably need a tune more than you’re willing to admit. That means base grinds and beer money you might not be willing to part with, given the precious few snow days remaining on the calendar. Fortunately, there’s a cheap, do-it-yourself alternative for those with a little initiative and some elbow grease.
Avalanche Sports in Breckenridge (540 S. Main St., 970-453-1461) is more than willing to do the work for you, but co-owner Rich Banach can also walk you through the basics of a DIY tune:
Most folks are worried about wax when the spring snow gets grabby. If that’s your only issue, skip to the bottom.
STEP 1: start with the edges using a basic tool such as the Final Cut Base Beveler from Sun Valley Ski Tools ($75) and any standard file that fits in it. The idea is to get the edge off the snow a little to make turn initiation easier. For most recreational skiers, the 1-degree base beveler will work best, with the tool holding the file at the proper angle as you apply pressure.
Just be sure to run the file down the edge in only one direction — with the grain of the file teeth — or you will ruin your file. A good trick is to color the base edge in with a magic marker and, when the color is gone, move on to the side edge.
STEP 2: Banach recommends a square edge — with a 1-degree bevel on the side edge of the ski as well as on the base edge. Use something like the TOKO Mini Pocket Hand Tuner — Montana, Wintersteiger, Swix and others make similar tools for $32 to $45 — that simply slides along the edge as it rests flat on the ski base. Again, note the direction of the file.
STEP 3: After filing down the edge, the burr or curl of metal created on the opposing edge must be removed using a gummy stone. Be sure to polish side edges at a right angle to the base edge or you will knock off the corner you just created.
STEP 4: Finally, the tips and tails of your skis should be “detuned,” or dulled to prevent your edges from grabbing where they aren’t supposed to. For modern shaped skis, rub a medium gummy stone at a 45-degree angle over the top 4 inches of the tip and the last 1 or 2 inches of the tail.
STEP 5: Next, choose a temperature-appropriate hydrocarbon wax (it’s less expensive than fluorocarbon) and an iron with an adjustable temperature setting. Set it on the lowest temperature that still melts the wax. Either apply wax directly to your boards or drip it on by melting it on the iron over them, then spread it evenly with the iron. If the iron is smoking, it’s too hot and the wax is burning off.
STEP 6: Once the wax dries, scrape it with a plastic wax scraper (never metal), then brush the base with a stiff nylon bristle in order to polish and remove excess wax from the microstructure of the base. Always polish from tip to tail, the direction of the ski.
Any wax left on the surface is going to slow you down.
Scott Willoughby: 303-954-1993 or swilloughby@denverpost.com
