If Goldilocks rode a bicycle, the George S. Mickelson Trail in the Black Hills of South Dakota would be just right.
This 114-mile trail, one of the best rail-trails in the country, is not too smooth and not too bumpy. Its surface is a combination of crushed limestone and gravel, with sections worn so nicely they seem nearly paved.
The Mickelson is seldom close to the road and, in fact, frequently veers entirely out of sight and out of mind of any motorized traffic or visible reminders of civilization. But it’s also never more than 15 miles from modern conveniences — water seasonally at most of the trailheads, as well as vault toilets — and easy access at nearby towns to restaurants, lodging and, most welcome, a hot shower.
The views are downright magnificent, alternating between lush, overgrown backcountry, ghost towns and thriving old mining towns and tourist draws such as Crazy Horse Memorial. The elevation and elevation gains aren’t too hard; much of it is level, and none of it ever exceeds 4 percent grade. But you can make it tougher, doing larger pieces of it to push yourself as more strenuous out-and-back rides.
Like history? Get some at milepost 44.5, at Custer, named for Lt. Col. George Armstrong Custer, whose 1874 expedition discovered gold in them thar hills, for the last big rush in this country (and then two years later there was that famous Last Stand at Little Bighorn, of course). There’s Mystic, milepost 74.7, now a ghost town but once a railroad crossroads, and Deadwood, the beginning or the end of the line, where Wild Bill Hickok and Calamity Jane are buried. And train buffs will foam over the more than 100 converted railroad trestles and four rock tunnels.
Or maybe you prefer simply to ride, breathing the fresh air and keeping an eye out for the occasional deer, bighorn sheep and elk — as well as rafters of wild turkeys — that wander the woods and meadows.
Looking for a family ride? That’s the Mickelson, an ideal jaunt for kids, even little ones who can hop on at the trailheads closest to town and ride the level sections until they tire and then turn back.
On the other hand, this is one that can be done solo, and, for much of the time, that’s exactly what you’ll be. While the sections nearest towns find joggers, other bikers, the occasional horseback rider and maybe a few looky-loos checking out the ghost towns near the trailheads, only during peak season will you see anything resembling “heavy use,” according to Dana Garry, trails manager for the Mickelson at the South Dakota Division of Parks and Recreation for the Department of Game, Fish and Parks.
“Heavy use,” though, might mean seeing one other party during your entire trip. Garry reports that the Mickelson gets about 60,000 to 70,000 users on the trail in a year. Each year has seen an increase in trail pass purchases, both day use and annual passes, since the trail opened. “But you can be on there some days and not see anybody,” Garry says. “That’s what’s so great about how long it is, and how people use it. They’re spread out and interested in different parts, and it just naturally feels empty all the time.”
Garry says July probably is the heaviest-use month, although “really it’s busiest from about mid-June to September,” she says. “We’ll see a large increase of people using the trail this weekend (May 23 and today) and then it will be a steady increase into the summer, with the peak in July.”
Most of the visitors come from South Dakota, Wyoming and Colorado — “We do get users from Japan and Germany and Switzerland, people from around the world who have heard about it through word of mouth,” Garry says — and most of them are on bikes. “We also do two marathons a year on the trail, and there are definitely a lot of local runners who like the trail for that,” she says. “But the overall majority is bikers.”
You probably won’t want to ride the Mickelson on a skinny-tire road bike, but a hybrid or a fat-tire bike will work just fine. And you don’t need to load yourself down with a lot of gear — plenty of water, a rain jacket and pants for sure, maybe a change of socks, snacks, a pump and patch kit probably will suffice.
It’s up to you how much or how little of the trail you take on. The first time, we did it in three days but went back to do Rochford to Custer again. And we did one piece, Rochford to Deadwood, as a 52- mile out-and-back.
Goldilocks never returned to the home of the three bears, but since our first Mickelson experience, we’ve come back to the Black Hills, a favorite destination, to revisit sections of it, and plan to bring teen daughters back as soon as possible to do the whole thing once more.
In honor of the guv
The Mickelson Trail was named for the former South Dakota governor who enthusiastically supported its transformation from the Burlington Northern rail line that once took trains from Edgemont to Deadwood until it finally blew its last whistle in 1983. It took seven years to build — from 1991 to 1998 — and was the result of a collaboration of five government agencies and one local nonprofit.
That’s surprising enough, that so many entities could work together to make it happen, but what’s really amazing is that the trail has remained so well maintained, that the shelters and restrooms at the trailheads are graffiti-free, and the area around it continues to be pristine.
Ed Bonds, who owns Rabbit Bike in Hill City with his wife, Joey Bonds, thinks it might be the type of cyclist the trail attracts. “It’s more of a group and family kind of thing,” Ed says. “It’s not your gonzo or mountain biker ride. It’s about the scenery and the setting.”
Ed adds that it helps that the Mickelson sees steady, rather than overwhelming, use.
“The trail is getting discovered, though,” he said. “In July, we can hardly handle them all.”
In Hill City, across the street from Rabbit Bike, you can take a break and hop on the 1880 train, which will give you a chance to sit on something a little more comfortable than your bike seat and get a better look at the Black Hills, named by the Lakota — “Pahá Sápa,” they called it — for those granite mountains covered in dark trees.
Another nice rest from the bike seat is Custer State Park, which about 1,500 bison call home. You can park your vehicle along Wildlife Loop Road and let them come to you; they and their pronghorn friends graze the open range here, wandering back and forth across the roads looking for a chance to get their photos taken.
And what would Goldilocks be without bears? Despite the occasional alleged sighting, it’s generally accepted that the last free-roaming black bear in the Black Hills was killed in Rochford in 1968.
However, Bear Country U.S.A., 8 miles south of Rapid City, has more than a hundred adults and, depending on the time of year, anywhere from 10 to about two dozen babies, all of which you can watch to your heart’s content — the adults from the safety of your car on a “safari-style” drive, and then park to visit the outdoor nursery, where the little ones romp, fall over and wrestle each other nonstop.
“Oh, my god, they are the cutest things ever,” said Amanda Manzanares, who was visiting with her daughter, Jilli, 6, from Oklahoma City. Jilli was transfixed by the bears and didn’t want to leave. But then again, none of us did. “I could just stay here all day,” Manzanares finally said, gently tugging Jilli away. “But we have other stuff to do today, right?”
So did we. The question was, which thing? Stop in down the road to see the baby St. Lucian Lancehead snakes at Reptile Gardens, or go watch a re-enactment of Wild Bill Hickok’s murder in Deadwood?
Then again, the sun was out. We could always just go back to Hill City and hop on the Mickelson Trail for a few hours.
Just right, indeed.
Kyle Wagner: 303-954-1599 or travel@denverpost.com,
Black Hills Insider’s Guide
GET THERE: The Black Hills of South Dakota are a relatively easy drive from Denver, about 375 miles that will take about six to seven hours. Take Interstate 25 north to Orin, Wyo. (Exit 126), then follow U.S. 18 east into South Dakota. Take South Dakota 89 north (it joins U.S. 385 north) to Custer. The best-kept secret to driving there, though, is that it doesn’t take much longer, really, to drive across the scenic Nebraska panhandle and avoid Wyoming’s well-traveled U.S. 1 8/85, with its frequent construction delays. Take Interstate 25 north to Interstate 76 east to Colorado 71, which then turns into Nebraska 71 and then South Dakota 71. Follow that into Hot Springs, S.D., and then take U.S. 385 north to your Black Hills destination. At 420 miles, it takes about an hour longer; Scottsbluff, Neb., makes a good stopping point for a bite to eat.
Or you can fly into Rapid City Regional Airport (RAP), 10 miles from downtown Rapid City, on Delta, Frontier and United from Denver International Airport (DEN). Summer rates start at about $179 round-trip. The drive to Deadwood from there, via South Dakota 79, is 45 miles and takes about an hour.
Be aware that you’ll pay a bit more to rent a car in Rapid City than most places because there’s an extra charge for unlimited mileage — anywhere from $5 to $20 a day. They expect you to drive around a lot.
STAY
The Lodge at Palmer Gulch and Mount Rushmore/Hill City KOA (12620 Highway 244, Hill City, 800-562-8503, ). This appealing complex (see Page 2T) is well-laid-out, is packed with amenities and offers a variety of lodging options, from tent and RV sites to small, rustic cabins to huge, fully loaded “executive” cabins to rooms in the main lodge. For kids, there’s a Splash Park, two heated pools, miniature golf, a water slide and more. They also rent banana-seat bicycles for tykes and full-size minivans for adults who don’t want to negotiate the Black Hills in a 29-foot Winnebago. Harney Peak is a hop-skip away, and Hill City and Custer are easy drives. The on-site restaurant does three meals a day, and sing-alongs, chuckwagon dinner rides and other Western-themed activities also are offered. Rates start at $80/one-room cabin; $114-$142/lodge room; $448/executive cabin; $60/pull-through RV site; $40 tent site.
Shady Rest Motel (238 Gordon St., Custer, 605-673-4478, 800-567-8259, ~shadyrst/). Tucked away from the noise of the main drag two blocks away and offering one of the best deals around, Shady Rest’s cutie cottages have kitchenettes with toasters, coffeepots and microwaves, and the front porches are a nice place to sit after a day of touring. The new, big cabin with full kitchen and wrap-around deck sleeps 10, and there’s a hot tub on the premises; guests also have privileges at the YMCA pool three blocks away. The Mickelson Trail is one block away, and owners Joel and Kari Tucker go above and beyond to make your stay a good one. Rates start at $58 for two and $175 a night for the large cabin off-season and $70/$240 in-season.
Sunrise Ranch (27772 Elbow Canyon Road, Edgemont, 605-662-6275, sunriseguestranch ). In spring and fall, you can go on an authentic cattle drive at this lush property, which sits about 6 miles from Edgemont at the end of the Mickelson Trail (the ranch will shuttle you to the Edgemont trailhead). They’ll also overnight your horses for $10 (you provide the feed). Your own hearty breakfast is included, with a side of stunning views clear into Wyoming and Nebraska. The knotty pine lodge offers queen or double beds. Rates are $75 per night.
DINE
Sage Creek Grille (611 Mount Rushmore Road, Custer, 605-673-2424, wildsagegrille ). By offering specials and staying open year-round, the Sage has earned locals’ loyalty. Sit at a highboy table in the front to people-watch and have a glass of wine from the astoundingly well-priced roster (most cost around $28 a bottle) and a few starters (when available, the mussels and clams in pesto broth is a bread-dipping delight) or dig into locally produced bison burgers and walleye prepared “Caesar-style.” The excellent, and large, desserts are all made in-house.
Dakota Cowboy Inn Restaurant (208 W. Mount Rushmore Road, Custer, 605-673-4613). This casual, family-friendly spot has gifts and souvenirs galore, which gives you something to look at while you wait for your food, which includes hearty, reasonably priced breakfasts, soups, salads and sandwiches for lunch and dinners that include a tasty prime rib.
Baker’s Bakery & Cafe (541 Mount Rushmore Road, Custer, 605-673-2253). Give up from the start on trying to decide between a large, fresh-baked doughnut (the maple-glazed has perfect icing, not too sweet) and a full-on breakfast — just get them both. A platter half-covered with golden-brown hash browns, spot-on over-easies, house-baked sourdough toast and two thick-cut slices of crispy bacon will set you back just $6.39, and it’s impossible to walk out without a cinnamon-spiced apple fritter for the road. Good diner coffee flows freely, and the service is about as nice as can be.
Botticelli Ristorante Italiano (523 Main St., Rapid City, 605-348-0089). Red sauce and northern Italian specialties in a casual setting, with a good wine list, fresh-baked focaccia and fresh seafood. The salads of the day are a good bet. Efficient and friendly service.
Pheasant Dining Room at the State Game Lodge in Custer State Park (U.S. 16A, Custer, 605-255-4541, . Famous for the fact that Presidents Calvin Coolidge and Dwight Eisenhower have eaten there, the place should also be well-known for its amazing food, from superb game meats to savvy sides and incredible, elaborate desserts. Superb service to boot.
Mangy Moose Saloon (240 Main St., Hill City, 605-574-9502). The antique, cherry-wood back bar and quite a collection of mounted wildlife — deer, bison and elk heads, whole birds, bobcat and beaver, and of course, a “mangy moose” — give this inviting hangout plenty of Old West charm to mix with the newfound pastimes of rock music and karaoke. Good Mexican food.
PLAY
Custer State Park is one of the best places in the country to see bison roaming around, about 1,500 of them, sometimes right up to your car. You also will likely see plenty of pronghorn, mule deer, a few wild burros, coyotes and mountain goats. The park also offers fishing, hiking, boating and swimming at several lakes, and snowmobiling and ice fishing in winter. There are four lodges to stay and dine in, and there are a dozen campgrounds. Visit . or call 605-255-4515.
Harney Peak is a source of local pride as the highest point (7,244 feet) in the United States east of the Rocky Mountains, and the summit reward is a panoramic view of the Black Hills from an abandoned fire watchtower. The extremely popular trail (read: crowded on weekends in summer) is wide and well-worn, is about 6 miles round-trip from Sylvan Lake and slightly longer from the Horse Thief Lake side, and gains 1,100 feet in elevation. Sylvan Lake is in Custer State Park; entrance fee is $6 per person or $15 per vehicle for seven days.
1880 Train (222 Railroad Ave., Hill City, 605-574-2222, .) chugs round- trip starting at either end between Hill City and Keystone, a tiny, perpetually blinking tourist town that serves as the gateway to Mount Rushmore, which takes a little more than two hours. Foamers will, of course, be in a lather over the restored steam locomotives and Drovers Waycar and other coach cars, and those looking for a relaxed way to see the Black Hills will not be disappointed. Adults $18-$22; kids ages 3 to 12, $10-$12; children under 3 ride free.
Bear Country U.S.A., 13820 S. U.S. 16, Rapid City, 605-343-2290, . Drive through the first part of this 250-acre, mostly open-habitat attraction, which houses dozens of black bear, as well as a couple of grizzlies, timber and arctic wolves, mountain lions, reindeer, bighorn and Dall sheep, elk and bison. The last part is the big draw, though: the raucous bear cubs, who seem to play nonstop. There are other babies, too, all born here. Open May-November: 9 a.m.-4 p.m.; June-August, 8 a.m.-6 p.m.. Admission is $15 adults, $8 kids 5-12. Save $1 per person or $5 per car by booking ahead online.
Crazy Horse Memorial, U.S. 1 6/385, 605-673-4681, . Open year- round: 7 a.m. until sundown in the summer, 8 a.m. until sundown in the winter. Admission: $10 adults, children younger than 6 free or $27 per car, whichever is cheaper. If you walk up or are on a bicycle, it’s $5.
Mount Rushmore National Memorial, South Dakota 244, Keystone, 605-574-2523, . Open 24 hours a day except Christmas Day (Lincoln Borglum Museum is open daily 8 a.m.-10 p.m. summer, 8 a.m.-5 p.m. winter). There is no entrance fee; however, there is a $10 parking fee per vehicle regardless of size, good for one year. The national parks pass will not cover this fee.
Reptile Gardens, U.S. 16, Rapid City, 800-335-0275, reptile-gardens.com. Since 1937, this fascinating (for lovers of snakes, lizards and other creatures) spot has been charming visitors, especially with the Sky Dome and Safari Room, an open space where you can walk around with reptiles roaming free (hint: Look on the branches). The giant tortoises out back are pretty cool, too. Open daily 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Apr. 1-May 21; 8 a.m.-7 p.m. May 22-Labor Day; 9 a.m.-4 p.m. Labor Day-Oct. 21. Admission prices vary according to season; summer rates are $14 adults, $9 kids 5-12.
Murder and Trial of Jack McCall, Old Style Saloon No. 10, 657 Main St., Masonic Temple, 715 Main St., Deadwood, 605-578-3346. A free re-enactment of the murder of Wild Bill Hickok by Jack McCall in the saloon daily at 1, 3, 5 and 7 p.m. Kids are welcome until 8:30 p.m., but note that it can be a bit smoky. Your best bet — considering that this is also a gaming establishment — is to try for a space on the patio.
Kyle Wagner
George S. Mickelson Trail details
The George S. Mickelson Trail, Edgemont to Deadwood, is 114 miles (5 miles were recently added as the Fantail Loop near Deadwood).
You need a trail pass if you are older than 12, unless you are within the city limits of the towns along the trail route. It costs just $3 per day or $15 for an annual pass. We did meet up with one of the Game, Fish and Park rangers who said his days are spent riding up and down the trail checking passes. There are self-service stations along the route, or you can buy them online at /northernhills/mickelsontrail/index.htm.
Be aware that there is water at cisterns at all of the trailheads except for Mystic, but only seasonally (usually starting about mid-May and into the fall); check the website for details. Also into May and beginning again in September, there can be snow on the trail, and temperatures and the weather fluctuate dramatically; be prepared for all conditions. Sept. 18-20 is the 12th Annual Mickelson Trail Trek; entry fee is $170. Visit the website or call 605-584-3896.
Dakota Bike Tours (605-359-5672, dakota ) is run by Jim and Glenna Books, who string together rides on the Mickelson Trail, in Spearfish Canyon or at Devils Tower or Badland National Monument, along with meals and stays in charming Black Hills lodgings and other fun stuff in the area. Bike rentals, plenty of insider info and just general peace of mind about logistics are included.
Bike rentals are available at Rabbit Bike in Hill City (125 Walnut Ave., 605-574-4302, rabbit ), which sits a few feet off the Mickelson, across from the train. Owners Ed and Joey Bonds do repairs and sell accessories, and their rentals run $50/first day, $40 subsequent days for a full-suspension bike, or $200 for a week, or $30 a day for a hard-tail. They also will shuttle you starting at $50 to the Redfern trailhead for up to 6 people.
Here’s how we rode the Mickelson the first time:
DAY 1 Rochford to Deadwood as a 52-mile out-and-back (2,600 feet of climbing). Then we drove to Custer and stayed at the Shady Rest. The climb up to Deadwood was probably one of the toughest of the whole trail (still only 4 percent grade), but the spectacular scenery was a favorite.
DAY 2 We hired a shuttle to Rochford and rode to Custer (38 miles, 1,600 feet of climbing). One of the longest sections of sustained uphill riding has at its conclusion a view of the Crazy Horse Memorial. We paused briefly at the top to gaze at the rendering of the Oglala Lakota warrior, accepted that it probably will never be finished, and thoroughly enjoyed the subsequent downhill reward.
DAY 3 We rode from Custer to Edgemont (45 miles, 250 feet of climbing), which includes a section of prairie dog towns, ponderosa pines, an old windmill and homestead, and an abundance of foliage, all fed by the constant flow of water drainage. It rained on us a bit, but then the sun came out. Alternating rain, snow and sun is a possibility in the Black Hills anytime except maybe July.
Kyle Wagner
