There are more than a few restaurants in town billing themselves as a neighborhood hangout, a place where locals can roll in, alone or with friends, to relax over a beer, have a bite to eat, and decompress from the day. Problem is, very few of these places are very relaxing, thanks to massive banks of flat- screen television sets, which, if you’re a lot younger and fonder of the constant distraction of screaming sports announcers than I am, might seem like a nice thing.
But I, like many readers, am neither young nor fond of screaming sports announcers during dinner. By the time I’m ready for a quaff and a bite at the end of the day, I’ve likely had my fill of screaming. What I want is a reliable, low-key meal in a place that, while lively and youthful, is also restrained, comfortable, and, here’s the kicker, serves smart, cut-above food that’s neither overpriced nor overfried.
If I lived in Denver’s Uptown neighborhood, Jonesy’s Eat Bar (located at the corner of East 20th Avenue and Logan Street) would be my local, and I would be there once a week. That is, if one of its many regulars would make room for me.
All good restaurants strive to create and cultivate a regular clientele; being a community touchpoint is the very essence of restauranting. (Word purists, here is your cue to have at me for imposing present-participle status onto a word that isn’t even a verb in the first place.) Jonesy’s, by keeping its mission small and pure (serve better-than-average food in a non-aggressive atmosphere), succeeds in this quest.
The best seats in the small house are in the row of booths across from the bar, where if you come early you’ll be able to stake out a spot for extended chilling.
Though there’s been some to-ing and fro-ing (more non-verbs) in the kitchen staff, one dish that’s consistently made good sense is the gnocchi with torn pieces of roasted lamb shoulder. Recalling at turns Rome and London, the dish is a now-required offering in most self-described gastropubs (as Jonesy’s is), marrying the sweetness and comfort of slow-roasted lamb with the softness and elegance of gnocchi.
Jonesy’s scores creativity points for the bacon-wrapped water chestnuts with their tangy-sweet pineapple chutney, and the spicy cauliflower appetizer, a marriage of South Asian curry with Colorado spice. Comforting notes are hit with the lamb sliders and excellent pasta carbonara, made in this case with nicely cooked penne.
There are some silly things on the menu, too, for example the artery- menacing “mac-and-cheese” fries, doused in cheddar cheese sauce and bacon. This gloppy dish has many fans and shows no signs of disappearing, but I’ll take my fries cheeseless, thanks.
Extra credit to Jonesy’s for its extensive collection of local beers, and its above-average selection of wines by the glass. Don’t come here to guzzle cheap swill; but then, why would you need to? There are plenty of $2 PBR specials in Denver already; that market is well-served.
Jonesy’s makes a point of being low-key and laid-back. The downside to this philosophy is oft-spotty service. An easy attitude is a lovely thing, but it’s no substitute for hot food delivered swiftly and correctly, and Jonesy’s doesn’t always achieve this goal.
Note: Low-key or not, Jonesy’s also features live music on occasion, which may or may not be to your liking. Visit the website to check the schedule, and plan accordingly.
You’ll rack up a tab that is slightly north of modest at Jonesy’s, so if you’re looking for bargain-basement chow, look on. But the value is solid, because when your stomach is full of Jonesy’s id-pleasing fare, you’re less likely to cringe at the bill.
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JONESY’S EAT BAR
Gastropub. 400 E. 20th Ave., 303-863-7473,
** (Very Good)
Atmosphere: Cozy, casually appointed publike atmosphere
Service: Casual service can lead to long lags, but staff is friendly and caring.
Wine: Smart, short contemporary wine list, plenty of local brews (more than most)
Plates: $12-18.
Hours: Dinner, 5-11 p.m. daily. Brunch: 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.
Details: Street parking, or park in lot around the corner. Wheelchair accessible. Check website for live music schedule and extensive happy hour schedule. Wi-Fi.
Four visits
Our star system: **** : Exceptional *** : Great ** : Very Good * : Good
