There are a few cuts of meat that perform a double duty: that is, they can be quick-cooked, sauteed or grilled, or they can be slow-cooked. Chuck, of course, is one of them. Ground, it makes the ideal hamburger. Braised, it makes the ideal pot roast.
Skirt steak is another double- duty cut of meat. It’s best-known in this country in its grilled or griddled form as fajitas. But it also makes very flavorful stewed meat. In Venezuela, where my wife was raised, this dish, originally called carne desmechada, or shredded meat, is known as carne mechada (Venezuelans, like Americans, are contraction- mad, and given half the chance will drop the opening syllable of any word).
The following recipe is my mother-in-law Rosa’s, and, I am duty-bound to report, is the finest in all central Venezuela.
The skirt steak is cooked in a two-step process: First, the meat is stewed in a sort of court bouillon until it is fork-tender. Then it’s shredded and finished in a very flavorful soffrito made with annatto oil, onion, pepper, garlic, tomato and cumin. This isn’t a terribly spicy carne mechada, so you might want a shot or two of hot sauce at the end if you like spicy.
Serve this with arepas (my wife prepares a plate with sugared black beans, fried plantains and white cheese, her version of the Venezuelan national meal, pabellon criollo) or over rice.
John Broening cooks at Duo and Olivea restaurants in Denver.
Carne Mechada
Annatto seeds (achiote seeds) are available at many gourmet groceries and Latin groceries. Makes about 4 cups, or 8 portions.
Ingredients
SKIRT STEAK
2 pounds skirt steak
Pinch salt
1 large round of yellow onion
1 large chunk of carrot, about 3 inches
1 rib celery, about 3 inches
2 cloves garlic, whole
ANNATTO OIL
2 tablespoons annatto seed
1/4 cup canola oil
SOFFRITTO
Annatto oil
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and finely diced
Pinch salt
1 red pepper, peeled and finely diced
2 cloves garlic, chopped
1 cup tomato puree
Reserved braising liquid from steak
Shredded skirt steak
Pinch toasted ground cumin
Salt and pepper to taste
Directions
To make the braised skirt steak: Place the skirt steak in a small Dutch oven. Sprinkle with salt; add the onion, carrot, celery and garlic. Cover with water and place over low heat with the cover partially off. Cook the meat until fork-tender, about 1 hour. Remove the meat and when cool enough to handle, shred with a fork. Set aside. Strain the braising liquid and reserve.
Meanwhile, make the annatto oil: In a small saucepan, heat the annatto seed with the oil over very low heat, about 5 minutes. Cool and strain. Set aside.
To make the soffritto and finish the Carne Mechada: In a Dutch oven, warm the annatto oil and saute the onion until soft and caramelized. Add a pinch of salt and stir in the red pepper. Cook until soft and lightly caramelized. Add the garlic and sweat about 1 minute. Add the tomato puree, the reserved braising liquid, and the shredded skirt steak. Cook until thickened, about 5-10 minutes. Add cumin and adjust seasoning.
Serve over rice or stuffed in an arepa.
