A proposal for a pleasant afternoon:
Feign a fever at about 11:00 a.m., and appeal to your boss for the rest of the day off. (OK, fine: contact the H.R. folks and put in a legitimate request for a half-day off.)
Then, at noon, arrive at the Denver Art Museum to see the “Embrace!” exhibit, or more correctly exhibits, an innovative and exhilarating show (on display through April 4) featuring 17 artists, each of whom selected a different space in the museum’s Hamilton Building (some in galleries, some in open spaces) to display their work.
After 90 minutes of art (plenty for most of us) settle into a table at Palettes, located in the museum’s North Building, for lunch.
Arriving at Palettes at 1:30, after the lunch rush, guarantees you a more leisurely pace and more attentive service, which, what with the cold you’ve felt coming on, not to mention the exertion of walking around the museum for 90 minutes, is exactly what you need.
Palettes is spacious, airy and comfortable, with plenty of rubbernecking opportunities (recent sightings include some of our more famous City Council members and local television anchors) but a laid-back and relaxed attitude that doesn’t exist deeper downtown.
Palettes is part of the Kevin Taylor Restaurant Group, and the menu reflects that association. Among the options are past and present Taylor favorites including his famous smoked sweet corn soup.
But for lunch, your move is this: First, a sprightly bowl of spring vegetable minestrone, with a sharp swath of herbaceous pesto through it. Alternatively, choose the decadent steak tartare with capers. Skip the warm spinach, bacon and egg salad, which was sleepy and wan.
Next, a robust but restrained fillet of striped bass, crispy-skinned atop a shallow pool of tomato broth accented with saffron and studded with artichoke hearts and olives. Or, if you’d rather, a luxurious duck-leg confit, crisp-sauteed and draped over lentils, arugula and dried cherries.
Palettes wine list is affordable and accessible. Because you’re here for a long, leisurely lunch, consider a whole bottle. Or, stick to the by-the-glass options.
Desserts are pleasant and jovial and, because you’re already indulging by taking a half-day off, necessary. If it’s a warm day, choose the lemon icebox pie. If it’s cool, call for the sticky toffee pudding and pair it with a cup of coffee. Skip the pistachio macaroon sandwich, which was at once sticky and gummy.
Major extra credit goes to Palettes for its kids menu, because no one belongs at an art museum more than youngsters. Order the $6 serving of Kevin Taylor’s signature macaroni and cheese and challenge yourself to keep your fork out of your kid’s lunch.
When you leave Palettes, will you leave with the feeling that you’ve experienced a culinary masterpiece? Not likely. And in the family of Kevin Taylor restaurants, his eponymous restaurant at the Hotel Teatro still reigns as the king (in fact, the food there is on fire right now; if you haven’t been in a while, make plans).
But you will leave Palettes feeling fulfilled, relaxed, and well-fed with fresh, carefully prepared food. And when it comes to lunch, most days that’s exactly what you need.
Note: Palettes serves until 9 p.m. on Friday, and a fine dinner it serves. If you just can’t steal away for an afternoon, visit the museum after work at the end of the week, and settle down at Palettes for supper. The menu is mostly the same, with a few changes: Fewer sandwiches, more meat, higher prices.
What do you think of Palettes at the Denver Art Museum? Let us know at .
Palettes
Contemporary
At the Denver Art Museum (North Building), 100 W. 14th Ave Parkway, 303-534-1455,
** 1/2 (Very Good/Great)
Atmosphere: Spacious, relaxed, clean and airy dining room.
Service: Friendly and swift, and much improved of late.
Plates:Lunch: Appetizers $8-14. Entrees $10-17. Dinner: Appetizers $8-14. Entrees $16-29.
Hours: Tuesday-Thursday, Saturday and Sunday 11 a.m.-5 p.m. Friday 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
Details: Reservations recommended. Street parking. Wheelchair accessible. Good for groups.
Four visits.
Our star system:
****: Exceptional
***: Great
**: Very Good
*: Good
