Jackson Hole is synonymous with mountains.
BIG Mountains.
When fur trappers in the early 19th century saw a mass of snowcapped granite slashing upward roughly 7,000 feet from the sage and scrub of the valley floor to its cloud-piercing summit, they didn’t name it the “so-so-sized Teton” or the “ho-hum Teton”; it was the Grand Teton.
But it was water that drew those trappers to the area to begin with. They used the term “hole” to describe valley bottoms whose rivers, lakes, creeks and streams were prime habitat for beaver and other animals whose fur would help make fortunes and fashion.
Jackson’s Hole — named after trapper Davey Jackson and later renamed for, ahem, reasons of taste — stretches between the Teton Range to the west and the Gros Ventre (pronounced “grow vont”) Range to the east. In the spring and summer, melted snow moves downhill through its various geologic drainpipes, creating the headwaters of the Snake River and leaving the area brimming with on-water possibilities.
Whether you take a gentle float on a mountain lake in Grand Teton National Park or a roiling whitewater ride through the Snake River Canyon, a summertime visit to this corner of Wyoming is incomplete unless you dangle a digit or take a plunge into the water that flows from the Big Mountains.
While many commercial outfits begin operating this month, the snowmelt is c-c-c-c-cold from now through late June (and simply c-cold thereafter), so late- spring and early-summer visitors are advised to wear wetsuits if staying dry isn’t in the plans.
Whether you’re seeking a serene scenic outing, a way to cool off or an adrenaline fix, the following outings are the mainstays of summertime water wanderings in Jackson Hole that don’t have to involve a fly rod.
For fun, I’ve classified them by common ski-trail ratings. Be sure to talk to outfitters to check river levels and to discuss your comfort level.
BEGINNER
Want to get near the water without worrying about going in? These will keep you cool and calm as you navigate your vacation.
1. The Snake River levees
On the northeast side, you can walk along the dike road for 1.5 miles. The meandering Snake bounces back and forth between the levees in this stretch, but its magnificence, and power, are hard to ignore. More impressive on this outing is a long view of the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort and the Grand Teton on the way out and of Glory Bowl and the Jackson Range as you walk back.
The walk is an easy one for kids, baby joggers and a great spot to take your eager pets (as long as you pick up after them).
The southerly walk on the west bank is a bit longer, and sightseeing will include osprey and other raptors, rafts headed out on scenic floats and the occasional kayak.
For about 10 years from 1999 to 2009, the west bank was home to “Wilson Beach,” which quickly became one of the area’s favorite swimming holes, as there were ample deep pools suitable for wading and swimming. Floods wiped out those pools in recent years, although you’ll still catch the occasional tuber or wader on this stretch of river.
2. Jenny Lake
One of the more popular outings in Grand Teton National Park is a motorboat ride on Jenny Lake and a moderate hike to Hidden Falls.
Boat service runs from mid- May through September. Round-trip tickets are $10 for adults and $5 for children. Call 307-734-9227.
A well-maintained hiking trail circles the lake, but the boat offers a 2-mile shortcut to the Hidden Falls trailhead. From the dock, the trail heads up alongside Cascade Creek for about one mile to the falls. From there, head an additional half mile for the views from the aptly named Inspiration Point.
3. Phelps Lake
Another great waterside walk can be found on the Lake Creek Trail to Phelps Lake in the Laurance D. Rockefeller Preserve, which is located on the Moose-Wilson Road inside the park.
This hike, in an area home to abundant wildlife, goes from the definitely-worth- a-stop Interpretive Center (the first LEED platinum building to be constructed by the National Park Service) to Phelps Lake. You can continue on a loop or return the way you came.
The property, once home to the JY Ranch and later used as the Rockefellers’ summer retreat, was donated to the National Park Service by the family, though all of the buildings associated with that time have been removed. The preserve was officially dedicated in the summer of 2008.
Note: Arrive early. The parking lot is small, and you’ll be forced to wait or turned away if spots aren’t available.
INTERMEDIATE
(still, very low-key)
Perhaps you’d rather be on or in the water. The high-mountain lakes make for some stunning settings for a canoe or kayak trip or a brisk dip in chilly water.
4. String and Leigh lakes
String Lake sits at the foot of Mount St. John in the national park and is a family- friendly spot for gentle canoeing, tubing and swimming.
It is shallow, meaning it tends to be warmer than just about any other body of water in the area not fed by a hot springs.
Take a walk along the east shore and find a somewhat-private waterside spot for a picnic, or hoof it to the north end of the lake for what is best described as a “swim beach,” although dirt is more abundant than sand.
Inner-tubes, air mattresses and all manner of floatables are popular here. Its proximity to parking and restrooms make it a great spot for kids.
A narrow strip of water connects String Lake with Leigh Lake, making for a fun canoe destination for families with kids or beginners. If you’re floating in a canoe or kayak, keep an eye on the water, and you might spot cutthroat trout. Look to shore too; bear and moose have been sighted.
5. Jackson Lake
The park’s largest lake offers both individual and commercial paddling opportunities in a setting that is the scene of many a family portrait.
To go it alone on a day trip, put in at Colter Bay Village and explore the inlets of Colter and Half Moon bays or paddle out and explore Elk Island.
If you’re up for a family- friendly (ages 4 and up) sea- kayaking/camping trip, check in with outfitter O.A.R.S. for one- and two-night trips. Paddlers learn the basics before taking off from Signal Mountain Lodge and staying the night on Grassy Island, where it is the lone commercial outfit authorized for camping. Trips include opportunities for hikes and wildlife viewing and meals.
Other park lakes on which paddling is allowed: Jenny, Phelps, Emma Matilda, Two Ocean, Taggart, Bradley and Bearpaw.
Canoe and sea kayak rentals are available from commercial shops in Moose and Jackson, and from concessionaires at Jenny Lake and the Signal Mountain and Colter Bay marinas.
6. Flat Creek
An increasingly popular summer cool-off is grabbing a tube from a gas station or sporting-goods store and floating on Flat Creek through the town of Jackson.
Your best bet is to hook up with a local who’s done the float, as there are a couple of drop-offs, bridges and other possible dangers.
Overuse and lack of respect for private property have drawn frowns from many townsfolk in recent years, so be on your best behavior.
Tubing here is more about a fun way to cool off than about viewing the scenery. The most popular put-in is adjacent to the Dairy Queen on the north end of town across from the National Elk Refuge. Tubers float along the outskirts of downtown and then wind their way southwest.
The two primary pullouts are near the Postal Service office at Maple Way and Scott Lane or Smith’s grocery near the intersection of High School Road and the main highway entering town.
7. Snake River scenic (in the national park)
If you’d prefer to leave the paddling to someone else, commercial outfitters are happy to oblige.
The region’s bellwether scenic stretch is the 10-mile section of the Snake that runs in Grand Teton National Park from Deadman’s Bar to Moose. (Kids will enjoy the story of how the bar got its name; ask your guide.) Outings are available throughout the day, and many include riverside meals.
This isn’t a whitewater trip, but there can be a couple of bumpy sections, and early-season runoff can keep guides guessing as channels can change and new snags appear overnight. Wildlife viewing (moose, beaver, bald eagles and osprey on a mid-August trip last year) and scenery (the sun setting behind the Teton Range on evening floats and being on the river at the spot made famous by Ansel Adams) are unrivaled experiences.
Note: Many outfitters offer free trips for 4- and 5-year- olds. I chose to leave my kindergartner home last year, and wished afterward that she had come along.
8. Snake River scenic (Wilson Bridge to South Park)
With limited commercial licenses to guide in the park, outfitters in the past decade turned to the section of the Snake between the Wilson Bridge and South Park as an entertaining alternative.
This option has become increasingly popular because the stretch of river is easily accessible from Jackson or Teton Village. It offers great raptor viewing, the occasional moose, elk or bear sighting, and nice views of the Grand and other ranges that ring the southern end of the valley.
These scenic trips can also be arranged to include meals, and most outfitters will hand you a paddle to help propel your party downriver.
EXPERT
(or at least adventurous)
9. Snake River Canyon. For thrill-seekers willing to go all-in for on-water fun, nothing beats the river rodeo that is the roughly 8-mile whitewater trip through the Snake River Canyon.
Just south of Hoback Junction, the meandering, seemingly slow-moving river gets a squeeze in this canyon that produced the infamous “Three Oar Deal,” “Lunch Counter” and “Big Kahuna.”
Local lore is that American Indians dubbed the Snake “the Mad River” because it was practically impossible to navigate. Inflatable, self-bailing rafts and experienced guides have changed that dynamic, however. Outfitters delight in helping visitors grab a paddle and stroke their way through some of the Snake’s high-profile hydraulics.
Note: All but the most experienced river users should go with the pros here. The rapids are tricky depending on water flows and can be unforgiving to even the initiated.
Curtis Hubbard: 303-954-1405 or chubbard@denverpost.com
What you’ll need
NO MATTER WHAT
Personal flotation devices (a.k.a. life jackets): Provided on commercial outings; available for rent or purchase at area river outfitters and sporting goods stores.
River sandals or swim shoes: For everything but hiking near water, these are a mountain must. Look for a pair with a sturdy sole to protect against sharp rocks and help you keep your footing on slick river rocks. You will flop in flip-flops.
Sunscreen: You’ll want something that holds up well to water and sweat.
An eye on the clouds: Afternoon thundershowers are common, and you don’t want to get caught unprepared. Keep an eye out for lightning, and get off the water if you spot it.
Respect: For the water. For others. Keep your voices down on the water so as not to spook wildlife or fish. Keep a lookout for fishermen and steer clear of where they might be casting. Most important, know that even a placid, shallow creek can pose a real danger if you’re not alert.
IF YOU BRING YOUR OWN BOAT
Permit for Grand Teton National Park: Available at visitor centers. Cost for nonmotorized boats: $20 for 7 days, $40 annually.
A zebra-mussel decal: Beginning this year, boaters are asked to register to help the state battle this invasive species. Cost is $15 for nonmotorized watercraft owned by nonresidents. For more information, visit
Curtis Hubbard
RAFTING AND KAYAK OUTFITTERS
Barker-Ewing Whitewater*, 800-448-4202,
Charlie Sands Wild Water River Trips, 800-358-8184,
Dave Hansen Whitewater, 800-732-6295,
Jackson Hole Whitewater/Teton Expeditions, 888-700-RAFT,
Lewis and Clark Expeditions, 800-824-5375,
Mad River Boat Trips, 800-458-RAFT,
Snake River Angle and Float Trips*, 888-WY-TROUT,
Heart 6 Ranch*, 888-543 2477,
O.A.R.S Wyoming Adventures*, 800-346-6277,
Snake River Park KOA, 800-562-1878,
Solitude Float Trips*, 888-704-2800,
Triangle X — National Park Float Trips*, 307-733-2183,
Teton Whitewater, 866-716-RAFT,
CANOE AND KAYAK RENTAL AND OUTFITTERS
Adventure Sports at Dornans, 307-733-3307,
Grand Teton Lodge Co. at Colter Bay Marina**, 307-543-2811,
Jenny Lake Boating**, 307-734-9227,
Leisure Sports, 307-733-3040,
Rendezvous River Sports,
Signal Mountain Lodge**, 307-543-2831,
Snake River Canoe and Kayak, 800-KAYAK-01,
* Offers scenic floats/tours in Grand Teton National Park
** Located within or adjacent to the park
