One of the pleasures of the last few weeks of spring is the arrival of baby vegetables on the market. Juicier, more tender and more delicately flavored than their full-grown counterparts, baby vegetables are also beautiful to look at. Since they can be eaten in one or two bites they make perfect hors d’oeuvres or garnishes.
My favorite baby vegetable is probably the baby turnip. It has a much sweeter, less sulfuric flavor than an adult turnip. Most baby turnips sold at local markets also have a bonus: the delicious, tender greens attached to their stems.
The classic baby turnip dish is probably the French lamb navarin, a braised shoulder of spring lamb garnished with baby turnips; the Japanese, who grow the best baby turnips in the world, the Hakurai variety, cook them with ginger or miso; Chris Macgilliv- ray, one of my crew at Olivea, showed me a delicious way to use them, inspired by a trip to Spain: He tossed them in a chorizo vinaigrette and garnished them with small pieces of hazelnut praline.
I like to quickly boil the baby turnips, then finish by cooking them along with their greens in a little butter with pancetta and sage along with their greens. The dish is perfect served as a garnish to roasted or grilled leg of lamb, or as a first course by itself.
John Broening cooks at Olivea in Denver.
Baby Turnips With Pancetta, Onions, Garlic and Sage
Serves 4
Ingredients
12 baby turnips and greens, greens removed and washed
3 ounces thinly sliced and finely diced pancetta
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/4 cup finely diced onions
3 cloves garlic, finely sliced
12 sage leaves
Salt and pepper
A few drops lemon juice
Directions
If the baby turnips are about 1 inch in diameter or smaller, cook them in boiling salted water for about 4 minutes, or until easily pierced with a knife, then rub off the skins. If they are larger, peel them before cooking, leaving the stems attached.
Cool the turnips in a single layer. In a large saute pan, lightly render the pancetta in 1 tablespoon of the butter over medium-low heat. Add the onions, garlic and sage and sweat until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the turnips, turnip greens and remaining tablespoon of butter and cook until the turnips are warmed through and the greens are wilted, about 3 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and lemon juice.
