As a Central Texas resident, driving to the Panhandle for a mountain biking excursion didn’t seem to make much sense. Why bother with an achingly long drive when we are blessed with a multitude of diverse trails?
The answer is simple and probably surprising to some — Palo Duro Canyon. Maybe you’ve seen pictures, read something about it or talked to someone who has made the trek. But until you’ve actually experienced it, there’s no way to truly understand its rugged beauty or potential as a mountain biking nirvana.
My initial thought was to explore the canyon by hiking. But a little research revealed that more than 30 miles of trails are open to cyclists. There’s even a Texas Mountain Bike Racing Association event held in September.
And yet most off-road addicts that I’ve talked to in Austin don’t seem to know much, if anything, about riding in that part of the state. Places like Fruita or Moab, Utah, inspire the true reverence. But I’m here to unveil the Panhandle, and Palo Duro in particular, as a fantastic option for a mountain biking vacation.
The main drawback for this journey is the drive. I’m not going to lie — it’s long. Depending on the route, it’s roughly 500 miles one way from Austin.
Once you head north from Interstate 20, there’s a distinct shift in scenery. You enter the land of cattle drive innovator Charlie Goodnight, windmill farms and Red Raiders. It’s also vertically challenged. You get an eye full of eternity in any direction with few obstructions.
The canyon doesn’t seem to belong with its flat exterior. There’s relief seeing the ground suddenly split into an oasis of vibrant reds, greens and oranges. Within its borders, miles of fantastic trails await your arrival.
The signature trail is the Lighthouse, so named for the distinctive rock formation that resembles a seafarer’s beacon. After you pay a $5 per person fee at the park entrance, it’s a short drive to the canyon floor. From the trailhead, it’s a 5.7-mile roundtrip of sticky red dirt that weaves its way around canyon walls and through sandy creek beds.
This trail is not overly technical, although there are some obstacles that could induce a crash if you are not careful. But the nice thing about the design is it can be as tough or easy as you please. There are bypass trails that offer a detour around the tough stuff and then rejoin the main path.
So even if you are a novice like me, this trail is not intimidating. It’s important to know that you cannot reach the Lighthouse formation directly from the trail, so if you want to make the climb to see it, bring a lock to secure your bike to the rack at its base. Be warned: The remaining hike is very steep, so save some energy for the other trails.
There are two fantastic trails that intersect the Lighthouse: the Givens, Spicer & Lowry Running Trail (also bike accessible) and the Capitol Peak Trail. Both routes offer various levels of difficulty, but the Givens, Spicer & Lowry presents some technical sections.
I had to walk the bike up part of this steep and rocky singletrack. But the whole thing is ridable, especially for those with skills and experience. There is also a loop at the end of this trail (the Little Fox Canyon Trail) that is pure singletrack. It’s a great place to let it rip.
I also recommend hitting the Capitol Peak trail. It’s mostly red dirt singletrack with a few opportunities to grab some air. There are quick climbs and descents to keep you honest.
The one constant on every trail is the scenery. It’s breathtaking. The red claystone and white layers of gypsum make it hard to keep your attention on the obstacles ahead. The wildlife can also steal your attention.
I’m not a big fan of rattlesnakes, but they are slithering around in healthy numbers. There are also deer, roadrunners, turkey, coyotes, aoudad sheep, bobcats and my personal favorite, mountain lions. After seeing my loud yellow jacket, one local hiker joked: “You shouldn’t wear bright, shiny clothing, it excites the cats. Also, appear large if you’re confronted.”
The only thing you have to do if confronted by a lion is ride faster than the people around you. Actually seeing those cats is a rare thing, and not something to be feared.
One thing to remember is that unlike Central Texas, the canyon floor holds little humidity, so it is easy to overlook how quickly dehydration can occur. Taking extra water is a must for safety, especially for a summer visit.
After you have worn yourself out on the trails in Palo Duro Canyon, there are still more options for getting dirty on the bike.
Check out Caprock Canyons State Park in Quitaque, which is about 78 miles southeast of Canyon. In addition to more canyon riding, there is also a 64-mile rail-to-trail conversion. This multiuse trail crosses 46 bridges and runs through the 742-foot-long Clarity tunnel. The trailhead begins in South Plains, runs through Quitaque and ends in Estelline.
After riding some of these stunning landscapes, I became a believer. And while it was easy to forget I was in Texas, it wasn’t easy to leave. I hope people who love mountain biking will ride in the Panhandle. The experience is way more interesting than the expectation.
If you go
When it’s time to get off the bike, there are plenty of options for lodging.
If you like air conditioning and room service, then the most convenient place to stay is in the town of Canyon, which is on Interstate 27, about 13 miles west of Palo Duro. There are plenty of hotels, and several Thai restaurants, in this little college town.
If you would rather stay in the park, there are cabins with nice views of the canyon. A pair of two-room cabins on the canyon rim each have a bathroom and twin futon beds with bedding provided. The cost is $100 per night plus entrance fee. There is also a slightly larger cabin, the Sorenson, that is $115 per night plus entrance fee.
Inside the park, there are many campsites, all of which charge $12 per four people. For information on staying in the park, visit .
