2010’s best cookbooks
What’s old is new again this cookbook season. While a few flashy titles sparkle as coffee-table tomes, most of the year’s best are destined for the kitchen. Call it a sign of the times, and celebrate old-fashioned cooking with these favorites from 2010 — each one an excellent holiday gift.
“Shinin’ Times at The Fort”
by Holly Arnold Kinney
There are very few Colorado restaurants with as colorful a history as Morrison’s The Fort, founded in 1963 by visionary Sam Arnold, one of the first restaurateurs in the country who recognized that dining out was as much entertainment as it was nourishment. Built as a re-creation of Otera County’s 19th-century Bent’s Fort (a fur-trading station in southeastern Colorado) and populated with period-costumed servers, the restaurant commands one of the Front Range’s prettiest views and still serves a solid menu that ranges from guacamole to game. This new cookbook offers 250 pages of stories, memories, and most importantly, recipes. Note: Holly Arnold Kinney will sign copies of “Shinin’ Times at the Fort” at 7:30 p.m. Thursday at the Tattered Cover on Colfax.
Bowl of the Wife of Kit Carson (Caldo Tlalpeño)
This signature dish is still one of The Fort’s most popular. From “Shinin’ Times at The Fort,” by Holly Arnold Kinney (Fur Trade Press). Serves 4-6.
Ingredients
2 whole boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 2 pounds)
4 to 6 cups chicken broth
1/4 teaspoon dried Mexican leaf oregano, crumbled
1 cup cooked rice
1 cup cooked, dried garbanzo beans, or canned garbanzos, rinsed and well drained
1 chipotle chile (canned), packed in adobo, minced
4 to 6 ounces Monterey Jack or Havarti cheese, diced
1 to 2 ripe avocados, peeled, pitted and sliced
4 to 6 sprigs fresh cilantro (optional)
1 fresh lime, cut into 4 to 6 wedges
Directions
Place the chicken breasts and broth in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, skimming off and discarding any foam that rises to the top. Turn off the heat, cover, and allow the chicken to poach gently for 12 minutes. Remove the chicken from the pot and cut into strips, about 1 1/2 inches long. Return the chicken strips to the broth and add the oregano, rice, garbanzos and chipotle.
Divide the cheese among 4 to 6 deep soup bowls.
Return the soup to a boil, then ladle it into the bowls. Garnish each portion with avocado slices, cilantro if using, and a wedge of lime. Serve with hot tortillas.
“The Commonsense Kitchen”
by Tom Hudgens
If any of this year’s cookbooks is headed for dog-eared longevity, complete with tomato- sauce splatters and flour-dustings, it’s Tom Hudgens’ “The Commonsense Kitchen.” Hudgens, who cooks at Deep Springs College in the Sierra Nevada town of Big Pine, Calif., has produced a pragmatic, no-nonsense, totally reliable cookbook that focuses on seasonal cooking (not because it’s more romantic, but because it’s more practical) and from- scratch techniques (not because they’re glamorous, but because they make the food taste better). Modest, but stylish, recipes like Polish Sausage Stew and Red Chile Enchiladas are just the tip of the 500-recipe collection. As appropriate for beginning cooks as it is for those with more experience, this one will stick around your kitchen for years.
Garlic Soup
From “The Commonsense Kitchen,” by Tom Hudgens (Chronicle Books). Makes 2 servings.
Ingredients
3 cups water
1/2 teaspoon salt
Pinch of dried sage, thyme or rosemary
2 thick slices good bread
1 large garlic clove, halved
Extra-virgin olive oil
Grated Parmesan cheese
Freshly ground black pepper
Directions
Bring the water to a boil in a medium saucepan with the salt and a pinch of the dried herb of your choice. Toast the bread until golden brown. Rub the garlic into the rough toasted surfaces of the bread. Put a slice of bread in each of two wide soup bowls, and drizzle with extra- virgin olive oil. Pour the boiling-hot herb broth over the bread. Grate Parmesan cheese over the top, and twist that peppermill. A poached egg is very good in this soup.
“Meat: A Kitchen Education”
by James Peterson
Few food experts in the world have more knowledge — or a brighter ability to impart that knowledge — than James Peterson, whose previous one-subject books (like “Sauces” and “Vegetables”) are essentials. His latest, “Meat,” follows the trend, with crystal-clear instructions and advice on meats of all varieties, from chicken to rabbit to beef. Meat geeks will revel in the details, and step-by-step pictures make it idiot-proof.
Butter-Roasted Top Round of Veal
From “Meat,” by James Peterson (Ten Speed Press). The author writes, “When ordering your top round of veal, ask for cut number 349A (from the meat buyer’s guide that all butchers use). The A is important because it means “cap off.” The top round is one of the leanest cuts of meat there is, which means you must not overcook it by a second or it will be dry. Serves 8.
Ingredients
1 top round of veal with cap removed, about 3 1/2pounds
Salt
Pepper
1/2 pound (2 sticks) butter
Directions
Let the veal come to room temperature. Season all over with salt and pepper.
Meanwhile, clarify the butter: Boil the butter until all the water it contains evaporates and the milk solids lightly caramelize. This is easy to recognize because brown coagulated milk solids adhere to the bottom and sides of the pan after about 10 minutes. At this point, the cooking must be stopped immediately. The best way to do this is submerge the bottom of the pan in a bowl of cold water for a second or two before pouring off the clear, gold butter through a fine-mesh strainer.
Preheat the oven to 300 degrees. In a saute pan, heat 4 tablespoons of the clarified butter over high heat. Add the veal and brown well on both sides until golden. Transfer the roast to a small round roasting pan or ovenproof saute pan just large enough to hold it, and pour the remaining butter over the top.
Slide the pan into the oven and roast for about 40 minutes, basting every 10 minutes with the butter, or until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the center reads 130 degrees or the roast feels firm, rather than fleshy, to the touch. (Temperature will rise to 135 as the roast rests.)
Transfer the roast to a cutting board, tent loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 15 minutes before carving. Pour the butter and juices in the pan into a warmed sauceboat.
Cut the roast across the grain into slices and serve. Pass the jus at the table.
“Around My French Table”
by Dorie Greenspan
Talk about precision: Few foodies have done more groundwork than Dorie Greenspan, whose previous titles (including “Baking With Julia” and “The Cafe Bouloud Cookbook”) have become classics. Greenspan, who divides her time among New York, Connecticut and Paris, is known as much for her comprehensive attention to detail as her welcoming, encouraging tone.
Pumpkin Stuffed With Everything Good
Adapted from “Around My French Table,” by Dorie Greenspan (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt). The author writes, “Makes 2 very generous servings or 4 more genteel servings.”
Ingredients
1 pumpkin, about 3 pounds, top cut open (think Jack-o’-lantern) and seeds and strings removed from inside
Salt and freshly ground pepper
1/4 pound stale bread, thinly sliced and cut into 1/2-inch chunks
1/4 pound cheese, such as gruyère, emmenthal, cheddar or a combination, cut into 1/2-inch chunks
2-4 garlic cloves (to taste), split, germ removed, and coarsely chopped
4 strips bacon, cooked until crisp, drained and chopped
About 1/4cup snipped fresh chives or sliced scallions
1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme
About 1/3cup heavy cream
Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
Directions
Center a rack in the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment.
Season the inside of the pumpkin with salt and pepper and put it on the baking sheet. Toss the bread, cheese, garlic, bacon and herbs together in a bowl. Season with pepper — you probably have enough salt from the bacon and cheese but taste to be sure — and pack the mix into the pumpkin. The pumpkin should be well filled — you might have a little too much, or you might need to add to it. Stir the cream with the nutmeg and some salt and pepper and pour it into the pumpkin. Again, you might have too much or too little — you don’t want the ingredients to swim in cream, but you do want them nicely moistened. (But it’s hard to go wrong here.)
Put the cap in place and bake the pumpkin for about 2 hours — check after 90 minutes — or until everything inside the pumpkin is bubbling and the flesh of the pumpkin is tender enough to be pierced easily with the tip of a knife. Remove the cap during the last 20 minutes or so, so that the liquid can bake away and the top of the stuffing can brown a little.
When the pumpkin is ready, carefully, very carefully — it’s heavy, hot and wobbly — transfer the pumpkin to a platter that you’ll bring to the table. Slice and serve in wedges or generous spoonfuls.
“The Forgotten Skills of Cooking,”
by Darina Allen
Darina Allen, one of the icons of the slow-food movement and perhaps the best-known cook in Ireland (she founded the world- famous Ballymaloe Cookery School in County Cork), is committed to simple, rustic country cooking. Her book, billed as Ireland’s answer to Julia Child’s “Mastering the Art of French Cooking,” contains over 700 recipes, many with step-by-step photographs.
Slow-Braised Shoulder of Lamb With Garlic and Thyme
Recipe by Darina Allen, from “The Forgotten Skills of Cooking,” (Kyle Books). Serves 6-8.
Ingredients
1 shoulder of lamb, about 8-10 pounds
3 tablespoons extra- virgin olive oil
6 fresh thyme sprigs, plus extra for garnish
1 cup dry white wine
1 1/4 cups chicken stock
6 organic garlic heads
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Flat parsley for garnish
Directions
Preheat the oven to 300 degrees.
Score the fat side of the shoulder of lamb. Heat a little extra-virgin olive oil in a wide, shallow pan, and add a few sprigs of thyme. Lay the shoulder fat-side down in the pan, and brown over low heat — don’t rush this stage or the pan may burn.
Lift out the lamb, pour off and discard the excess fat. Deglaze the pan with dry white wine. Bring to a boil for 4-5 minutes. Then add the stock.
Add the unpeeled garlic heads, 2 or 3 sprigs of fresh thyme, and the lamb. Return to a boil. Cover tightly, transfer to the oven and cook for 2 to 2 1/2 hours or until the meat is tender and succulent and almost falling off the bone. Transfer to a carving dish, and surround with the cooked garlic cloves.
Strain and degrease the cooking juices, return to the pan and cook uncovered over high heat to concentrate the flavor. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Serve these delicious juices with the lamb, cut in thick slices and surrounded with the cooked garlic cloves, sprigs of fresh thyme and flat parsley.
“The Essential New York Times Cookbook”
by Amanda Hesser
Not a replacement for the classic Craig Claiborne original, this new (but equally massive) compendium of the “best” of The New York Times recipe archive was compiled and written by longtime NYT contributor Amanda Hesser. You’ll find recipes 150 years old here, sharing space with recipes just months old — and the result is both contemporary and timeless.
Heavenly Hots
Original 1987 recipe adapted from Marion Cunningham and the Bridge Creek Restaurant in Berkeley, Calif., for “The Essential New York Times Cookbook,” by Amanda Hesser (Norton). Note the small amount of flour, “just enough to lash the batter…into fragile cakes.” Prepare the batter the night before cooking. Makes 50-60 small pancakes.
Ingredients
4 large eggs
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 cup cake flour
2 cups sour cream
3 tablespoons sugar
Vegetable shortening for cooking the pancakes
Maple syrup or honey
Directions
Whisk together all the ingredients (except the vegetable shortening and syrup) in a large bowl, beating until smooth. This can also be done in a blender. Chill the batter overnight (or up to 1 week).
The next day, heat a griddle or large skillet over medium-high heat. Beat the batter again until smooth. Lightly coat the griddle or skillet with shortening. Drop small spoonfuls (about 3/4 tablespoon) of batter onto the griddle, making sure that when they spread out they measure less than 3 inches in diameter. When a few bubbles appear on top of the pancakes and the bottoms are browned, turn and cook the second side briefly — you don’t want to cook the pancakes all the way through because you want them to remain creamy in the center. Transfer to a platter and keep warm in a 175-degree oven. Repeat with the remaining batter.
Serve with syrup or honey.
“High Flavor, Low Labor”
by J.M. Hirsch
For years, J.M. Hirsch has been sharing simple, family-friendly weeknight recipes via his syndicated Associated Press column. Now he’s compiled 150 of the best in this easy-to-use cookbook, jammed with simple, relatively healthful recipes custom-built for families with kids (even fussy eaters). Expect this title to endure heavy use; good thing the paper stock is hefty and thick.
American Chop Suey
From “High Flavor, Low Labor,” by J.M. Hirsch (Ballantine). Serves 6.
Ingredients
4 strips bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 large yellow onion, diced
1 green bell pepper, cored and diced
1 red bell pepper, cored and diced
1 teaspoon Italian seasoning blend
1 pound lean ground beef
1 can (14.5 ounces) diced tomatoes
1 can (14.5 ounces) tomato sauce
1 cup chicken broth
1 1/2 teaspoons soy sauce
2 cups whole-wheat pasta (such as elbow macaroni)
Salt and ground black pepper, to taste
Directions
In a large skillet over medium-high heat, cook the bacon for about 2 minutes, or until it renders enough fat to lightly coat the pan.
Add the garlic, onion, both bell peppers, and the Italian seasoning. Saute until the onion just begins to soften, about 5 minutes.
Increase the heat to high. Add the beef and saute until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Mix in the diced tomatoes, tomato sauce, chicken broth, soy sauce and pasta.
Bring the mixture to a simmer, reduce the heat to low, cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the pasta is tender, about 14 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
“100 Best Gluten-Free Recipes”
by Carol Fenster
Local gluten-free hero Carol Fenster (she lives in Centennial) scores again with a pared-down version of her omnibus “1000 Gluten-Free Recipes” from 2008. This more-digestible collection includes solid recipes for breads and baked goods, plus entrees and snacks, in a stocking-sized package. Bonus: lots of background information on celiac-friendly products, recipe substitutions and techniques.
Broiled Soy-Glazed Salmon
From “100 Best Gluten-Free Recipes,” by Carol Fenster (Wiley). Makes 4 servings.
Ingredients
1/2 cup wheat-free tamari soy sauce
2 tablespoons honey
1 tablespoon unseasoned rice vinegar
1 tablespoon ground ginger
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 ( 4-ounce) salmon fillets
Directions
In a large, shallow bowl, combine the soy sauce, honey, vinegar, ginger, cayenne and black pepper. Add the salmon, flesh-side down, and marinate, refrigerated, 2 hours.
Place a broiler rack about 6 inches away from the heat source. Preheat the broiler. Remove the salmon from the marinade and discard the marinade. Broil the salmon, skin-side down, until the fish is just barely opaque when cut in the thickest part or when it flakes easily with a fork, 8 to 10 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillets. Serve immediately.
“At Home With Madhur Jaffrey”
by Madhur Jaffrey
The international queen of South Asian cooking, Madhur Jaffrey produced her latest book with simplicity and speed in mind. The dozens of recipes included here — from India, Pakistan, Bangladesh and Sri Lanka — were developed with American tastes and easy-to- find ingredients in mind, without sacrificing authenticity. A smart, accessible introduction to South Asian cooking.
Kerala-Style Chicken Curry
From “At Home With Madhur Jaffrey,” by Madhur Jaffrey (Knopf). Serves 4.
Ingredients
3 tablespoons olive or canola oil
1/2 teaspoon whole cumin seeds
1/2 teaspoon whole brown mustard seeds
One 5-ounce onion, cut in half lengthways and then crossways into fine half-rings
2 teaspoons finely grated peeled fresh ginger
4 cloves garlic, chopped finely
2 1/2 pounds chicken parts, skinned
1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper, or more if desired
1 tablespoon bright red paprika
1 teaspoon salt
15-20 fresh curry leaves, if available, or 8 basil leaves, torn up
1 cup coconut milk from a well-shaken can
3 or 4 bird’s-eye chiles (optional)
Directions
Put the oil into a wide pan and set over medium-high heat. When hot, put in the cumin and mustard seeds. As soon as the mustard seeds begin to pop, a matter of seconds, add the onions. Stir and fry until the onions have browned lightly. Add the ginger, garlic, chicken, cayenne, paprika, salt and curry leaves. Stir for 1 minute. Add 1 cup water and bring to a simmer. Cover, lower heat and simmer gently for 25 minutes, stirring now and then. Boil down most of the liquid. Add the coconut milk and, if using, float the whole bird’s-eye chilies on top and cook, stirring on medium-high heat for a minute.
“Thai Street Food”
by David Thompson
Part coffee-table book, part travelogue, part cookbook, this full-color celebration of Thai culture and cuisine is a feast for the eyes and the stomach. Thompson, who has been traveling to Thailand since the 1980s, breaks the book down into breakfast, lunch and dinner sections (he calls them Morning, Noon and Night); colorful photographs by Earl Carter bring this oversized book to vibrant life.
Grilled Bananas
From “Thai Street Food,” by David Thompson. You can find sugar bananas (they are short and stubby) at many Asian markets. Serves 4-6.
Ingredients
4-6 ripe sugar bananas, unpeeled
Directions
Prepare a grill and let the flames die down so that the embers are not too hot.
Place the bananas on the grill and cook at this lower temperature for 10-15 minutes, turning them often to ensure they cook evenly.
As the bananas cook, they will swell. When this happens, carefully cut along the length of each banana so it won’t burst. Continue to grill — without turning — until the bananas are soft.
