Edge Restaurant & Bar. 1111 14th St. (at the Four Seasons Hotel), 303-389-3343, . Three meals, seven days.
The look: No expense was spared in the design and buildout of this spacious, luxurious restaurant, which sits comfortably on the ground floor of the new Four Seasons hotel. Dark wood paneling, glass-walled private dining rooms, a glitzy wine display. Big tables and comfortable chairs. Innovative? Not particularly. Lavish? And how.
On the menu: It calls itself a steakhouse, and steaks command prime real estate on the menu. Filets, strips, rib-eyes, porterhouses — all cuts are represented. A dozen or so starters, another dozen side dishes, and chicken, pork, lamb and fish options round out the roster. The wine list is deep and cleverly written, though it’s not easy to lift or browse the hulking behemoth. Prices are what you’d expect at a glitzy (they call it “progressive”) steakhouse like this one: very high. A recent dinner for two, with apps, mains, sides and relatively modestly priced wine (no desserts) grazed $200 with tip.
The vibe: During weekday lunches, the restaurant is populated but not overcrowded. Come on a weekend evening for a busier room, filled with well-heeled folks on the way to (or on the way home from) the theater.
When to visit: Soon. During the holiday season, there’s a great big gingerbread clock tower — modeled after the D&F tower — in the hotel lobby that’s worth seeing. (In fact, come take a peek even if you aren’t dining.)
Tucker Shaw
