Ask Dawn Spencer Hurwitz to describe how much perfume is too much to spritz on, and she’ll offer a simple explanation.
“You can always put more on, but it’s not easy to take it off,” says Hurwitz, an aromatherapist and owner of Boulder-based DSH Perfumes. “I joke that those words will be on my gravestone.”
DSH, she says, works mostly with natural essences and specializes in custom fragrances.
“I’ve been designing aromas for 20 years,” she says. “It’s a wonderful job, being able to counsel people on what they like.”
She took a moment away from the gentle scents of flowers and herbs and resins to talk about finding the perfect blend for every individual.
Q: At this time of year, when there are few fresh flowers to smell, what scents can lift our spirits?
A: Citrus scents, those with a note called neroli, which is a type of orange blossom. Bergamot, which is a small orange that’s an ingredient in Earl Grey tea. It’s used in almost all perfumes. Both those scents are antidepressants. Pamplemousse (grapefruit) is one of our most popular scents. It’s a great mood elevator. Men think women are 10 years younger when they smell that.
Q: What’s the difference between what you offer and commercial fragrances, or even room sprays we find in the stores?
A: Commercial scents tend to produce a big smell in a room. That’s a function that a lot of perfume producers are looking for. Some are designed to bond to fabrics and stay forever. That’s not really a good thing.
Q: So do you have a signature scent?
A: I make strict decisions on what to wear. I love so many, but I don’t wear a lot for my own pleasure. I’m usually modeling things. Rose Verde is one I like. It’s all botanical. It starts out green and citrusy, then it goes to a natural rose. Not like that rose perfume your grandmother wore.
Q: Why did you get into the business?
A: Wearing fragrance is one of life’s greatest pleasures. Fine fragrance is artistic, and art can make things better.
Q: Speaking of art, you’ve worked with the Denver Art Museum. What was that like?
A: With King Tut, it was great. We allow people to smell fragrances inspired by the exhibits. Egyptians knew all about fragrance. We focus on scents that would have been popular in those cities at that time. “Cities of Splendor: A Journey Through Renaissance Italy” is next (coming April 10). It might be about color or texture — and the inspirational fragrances, of course.
Q: Some of those fragrances seem more inspirational on one person than another. Why is it that a perfume that smells great on one person might be horrible on another?
A: Everyone has a unique chemistry. It all depends on hormone balance and metabolism. Some people have more reactive skin; others have neutral skin. I offer an educational service I call “smell and tell.” I can smell your skin and tell you what you should avoid. And with scent, you really need to ask yourself if this is something you want to embody.
Q: What’s the difference between eau de parfum and eau de toilette?
A: Parfum is stronger. Toilette has more water, and less of the oil base. You want to be cautious with parfum.
Q: So whether it’s parfum or toilette, where should we apply it?
A: Pulse points, where your body has more heat. I like the back of the neck, because your hair will hold that scent. It’s an intimate place to be sniffed. And the crook of the elbow is good. The decolletage is also good. In fact, if you only put it one place, put it there. It’s right under your nose so you can smell it and enjoy.
Q: Why is perfume so expensive?
A: Well, the packaging is expensive with those perfumes you find in stores. The money isn’t usually spent on the actual product. The marketing campaign, the bottle, the packaging: They all cost a lot. On the other hand, with a small company like mine that customizes scents, it’s often the ingredients that are expensive. One ingredient we use is $10 a drop. And that’s my cost! Flowers are expensive. It takes a ton of rose petals to make a small amount. Resins are rare. One called oude is very pricey. But it’s all worth it to get the perfect scent.
Q: So is your house filled with wonderful smells?
A: Believe it or not, I have a scent- free home. All those room sprays tend to take a long time to go away. We’re paranoid about smelling bad. We’re really crazy about that. We don’t want our house to smell like our dinner, right? But that’s too bad, because that’s a natural odor that won’t last long. It’s not necessarily good for your brain to be bombarded with scents.
