2148 Larimer St., Denver, 720-746-9355. Sunday-Monday, 10:30 a.m.-10 p.m., Wednesday, 10:30 a.m.-midnight, Thursday-Saturday, 10:30 a.m.-3 a.m. The look: Jim Pittenger, a.k.a. “Biker Jim,” has been grilling sausages from a cart in Denver for more than five years. But now he’s also got a restaurant. It’s kind of like one of his hot dog carts, only, you know, you can go inside. The aesthetic is industrial — lots of metal and concrete and dark wood. The space has high ceilings and a wall of windows that opens to the patio, so it’s airy and bright.
On the menu: Sausages galore, with a few burgers thrown in and plenty of sides. Most of the dogs, which range from $5 to $8.50, are made out of game: pheasant, yak, elk, boar — there’s even rattlesnake. Don’t want meat? The restaurant offers a pair of vegan dogs. We tried the “spicy” vegan dog and thought it was great. Some of the dogs come “naked” — just meat on a bun. Others arrive with lots of stuff — the duck dog features an herby duck sausage topped with wasabi aioli, caramelized apples and shaved cheddar cheese. Most of the sides, including the mac ‘n’ cheese, are fried. Desserts include slices of Biker Jim’s cheesecakes and a “Jitter Shake,” a milkshake with espresso.
The vibe: That of Biker Jim himself: irreverant. The neon “open” sign says either “Yup” or “Nope.” What are those black marks on the concrete floor? The skid marks of a motorcycle that decorated the floor before the grand opening. It fits snugly into the neighborhood, which affects a polished-gritty air — the groovy cocktail bar down from the old tamale stand, across the street from the pot dispensaries and the pawnshop and the fancy pizzeria.
When to visit: Pre- or post-ballgame. After the bars close. Lunch. When you are trying to show an out-of-towner something unique.
Story and photo by Douglas Brown, The Denver Post
