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10111 Inverness Main St. (at the Vallagio development), Englewood, 303-799-9494, .

Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-11 p.m., Saturday-Sunday 10 a.m.-midnight.

The look: Eclectic. Like, way eclectic. The new building, in the center of the new Vallagio development, features a wide-open kitchen, a spacious dining room, a hodgepodge of mismatched furniture, and snapshots and memorabilia crowding the walls.

On the menu: As eclectic as the decor: Italian meets Hawaiian meets mainstream American. Think risotto “moco loco,” with a hamburger patty and fried egg on top, or braised pork shoulder with banana chips. Less-adventurous eaters can steer themselves to brown-butter Brussels sprouts with hazelnuts or a straightforward pasta Bolognese. Chef Brian Laird (formerly of Barolo Grill) is clearly stretching his creative muscles.

The vibe: Busy but not bursting at lunchtime; a heavier crowd at dinner (call ahead to reserve a table). Service is friendly and enthusiastic. Laird’s fans fill many tables.

When to visit: Come on a weekday after work, when the crowd is split between locals and commuters grabbing a bite before heading home. Tucker Shaw, The Denver Post

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