The road goes for 50 miles, but it feels like double that because it’s some of the worst rutted, bumpy “highway” with one-way bridges and sharp curves you’ll ever drive. The reward? Access to unparalleled views of paradise and secluded beaches, as well as waterfalls, cliffs and miles of stunning rain forest. Note that if you rent a car on Maui, the contract usually stipulates that you can’t drive it on the unpaved portions of this route (although everyone does anyway).
Insider’s tip: Honking your horn in Hawaii is the height of rudeness.
The route most traveled: Kahului to Nahiku on Hawaii 36 and 360
Off the beaten path: Red Sand Beach used to be known only to locals, but because it’s clothing-optional and the path has eroded away — making it appealingly more difficult to get to — it has, of course, become more popular. However, it’s still a gorgeous stretch of lava-rock beach with incredible views, and it’s still often deserted. Wear sturdy shoes (not flip-flops) to get there. To find it, go past the Hotel Hana-Maui lawn, watching for a barely visible trail (stay left, stay left).
The kitschy-kitschy coup: The legendary, 92-year-old Hasegawa General Store (5165 Hana Highway, Hana, 808-248-8231) is a hoarder’s dream shopping trip. Picture all of the sundries of a Wal-Mart, as well as the food staples of a 7-Eleven, plus some random clothes, alcohol and maybe some outdoor gear (but none of it really going together), all squished into a ramshackle building. Open 7 a.m.-7 p.m. Monday-Saturday and 8 a.m.- 6 p.m. Sunday — and that’s important, because on the 30 miles of bad road at this end, there’s not much else. Get an “I Survived the Road to Hana” T-shirt here, stock up on picnic items, and head straight for the beaches.
Refuel on road food at: Nahiku Coffee Shop and Smoked Fish Stand (Hana Highway, one-half mile past Marker 28) is a well-known landmark along the road. The pastries are baked, the coffee is roasted locally, and the on-site smoker regularly churns out tuna and marlin.
Sweet dreams: The Hotel Hana-Maui (5031 Hana Highway, 800-321-4262, ) is one of Hawaii’s best properties, a lushly landscaped bit of paradise situated on Hamoa Beach. The rooms are all open, airy suites with hardwood floors, wet bars and bathrooms with views. Rates start at $325 a night.
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