Twelve years ago, Denver Bouldering Club co-owner Lee Payne sold himself into bouldering. He sold the rock-climbing rope he had just received for his 15th birthday for enough money to enter a bouldering competition in North Carolina. The freedom and flexibility of bouldering keeps luring Payne back to the gym and, now, to the Rocky Mountains.
“It is so free and open,” Payne said. “My mind is clearer when I’m on the rock. I try and forget everything and be in the moment when I’m on the rock.
“I’m free to do whatever I want, climb in whatever direction I want. There are defined routes, but they are more unencumbered.”
Bouldering is a type of rock climbing that ditches the rope and harness, allowing the climber to work on specific and focused areas of the rock closer to the ground. Problems — the specific routes for bouldering — are complex and challenging areas on the rock that can be anywhere from 1 to 18 feet off the ground.
Stephen Nance, a guide and employee at Neptune Mountaineering in Boulder, said it is the focus on precise rock features that pushes climbers to take risks and improve their mechanics.
“Bouldering includes just 10 feet of hard moves versus 90 feet of hard moves with rope climbing,” Nance said. “Bouldering allows us to push ourselves more because we aren’t looking at huge falls. If we do fall, it is 8 or so feet onto a nice pad.”
The bouldering pad, or crash pad, is the most costly piece of gear. A used pad can be purchased for $50 or more, while a new pad costs around $400. The thick piece of foam is the difference between scars and broken ankles and eventually bouncing back from a fall. Anything is better than the carpet remnants the pioneers of bouldering used to break their falls.
Those same climbers developed the image of bouldering — one made of men with giant arms dominating rock faces and pulling themselves over outshooting cliffs — but in reality, women may have the upper hand when it comes to getting started on the rocks.
“At the beginning, it is usually easier for women to start bouldering because they have more flexibility and leg strength,” Neptune’s Tim Hanna said. “They can balance better on their legs rather than just trying to hang on with their upper body.”
With Denver’s easy accessibility to bouldering hot spots up and down the Front Range, a growing group of participants are finding a new minimalist approach to their favorite outdoor locations.
“You don’t have to mess with all the gear,” Nance said. “It is much more pure. It is you, some climbing shoes, chalk and maybe a pad. It is all about going out and exploring while not worrying about all the technical aspects of rope climbing.”
Bouldering is also a social activity, one reason Payne said he has stuck with it this long.
“The reality is every fall is a ground fall,” Payne said. “You spend more time on the ground with your friends trying to figure the problems out. It is a challenge that you can share with other people.”
Gear for climbing sans rope
Shoes
Invest in shoes that fit properly and allow you to use your feet more efficiently.
Bouldering pad/crash pad
With no harness or ropes to stop a fall, find a 3-foot by 4-foot pad with enough thickness to break your fall.
Chalk
When the heat and nerves kick up, chalk manages sweaty hands.
Where to play
Monkey Traverse (Boulder)
As one of the most popular bouldering problems in Colorado, the Flagstaff Mountain location is a great place to try your hand, watch other experts and get a feel for the bouldering community.
Satellite Boulders (Boulder)
Head up the Second/Third Flatiron trail of the main Chautauqua Trail for a group of tough problems that also get you out of the hot sun.
Piano Boulder (Fort Collins)
A challenging problem near the Horsetooth Reservoir along the west-facing ridge. If the Piano Boulder is too tough, there are a handful of other options within a few steps.
The lingo
Sequencing: How you move one hand over the other in order to make the move you need.
Crimp: A small, flat edge of rock.
Slopper: An open-hand grip or bulge.
Problem: A specific bouldering route. Climbers work a problem to find a solution, which is the goal of bouldering.
Highballing: Figuring out what height you can fall from onto a crash pad without hurting yourself.
Flapper: An injury to your hand in which the skin hangs loose.
Not just a summer sport
Bouldering is not limited to the summer months, as the best outdoor bouldering locations change depending on the time of year and the elevation. As the warmer weather fades, skills continue to be groomed at indoor bouldering gyms around the metro area. Try these for further instruction:
Denver Bouldering Club
Boulder Rock Club
