Chili’s Grill & Bar
Location visited: 3860 River Point Parkway in Sheridan
The deal: $20 for one appetizer and two full-size entrees.
Recommended deal item: Chicken fajitas. It’s good value on one of the chain’s most popular items.
The taste: Come for the ridiculous menu titles – the quesadilla explosion salad, included – but stay for the consistently tasty and fresh food.
The good news: Chili’s surprised us. Of the four chain restaurants, its offerings were the most varied and its dishes tasted the best. It helped, too, that everything matched up.
The bad news: The service was efficient and the environs were clean, yes. But Chili’s remains a corporatized, generic night out – and that’s quite intentional.
The experience: Thoroughly pleasant. We were seated 30 seconds after walking in the door. Food arrived when it should have. We never felt rushed. A hostess seated a single woman next to us with the sign-off: “And here’s the best view in the house.” (Sure enough, the seat on the west side of the Sheridan location has a clear view of the Rockies.) And three people told us to have a nice day on our way out.
Chain rating: 8.5 out of 10
Final bill for two: $33, after two iced teas, tax and tip
Applebee’s
Location visited: 10625 W. Colfax Ave. in Lakewood
The deal: $20 for one appetizer and two entrees.
Recommended deal item: Riblet Basket. The mini-ribs are popular for a reason. Ask for light sauce, unless you don’t mind swimming in barbecue.
The taste: The selections are pedestrian – but in a crowd-pleasing kind of way. Basic offerings are presented here almost as they appear in the menu’s pictures.
The good news: The service was winning, with friendliness everywhere, quick refills and knowledgeable answers. The food is fine, too – not as respectable as Chili’s, but better than most chain offerings.
The bad news: The faux-localization of each location is condescending and off-putting. But at least they try for a connection to the communities they inhabit. Also, this isn’t a margarita bar. The too-tart concoctions here could use more substance – and, ideally, some fresh fruit juices.
The experience: We were surprised to find a packed restaurant on a Wednesday night – full of families and corporate gatherings. (It recalled “The Office” episode when Michael Scott takes the crew to Chili’s.) The over-table lights are too bright. But the serviceable food and generous service made up for it.
Chain rating: 7 out of 10
Final bill for two: $42, after two margaritas, tax and tip
Olive Garden
Location visited: 2520 E. County Line Road in Highlands Ranch
The deal: $12.95 for three course dinner, including soup or salad, entrée and dessert.
Recommended deal item: Smoked mozzarella chicken. The four-cheese cream sauce isn’t what you’d expect, and the sundried tomatoes add a nice flavor.
The taste: The deal options are more limited here. Pick between five entrees and later five desserts. At least there’s good variety among the limited options.
The good news: Olive Garden has a proven track record, famous bread sticks and all. The known product practically defines suburban chaindom. Is it the Starbucks of Italian cuisine? Sure.
The bad news: These folks need to keep an eye on quality control. See the next line.
The experience: Admittedly, we stopped into the Highlands Ranch location an hour before closing. But still, the service was hurried, with the salad and entrée arriving at the same time – before the bread sticks, even. Speaking of, the bread sticks were stiff and inedible and the atmosphere wasn’t friendly. The waitress was friendly – even offering to sit down and help us with the bottle of wine – but her kitchen made her look bad.
Chain rating: 6 out of 10
Final bill for two: $64, after one bottle of wine, tax and tip
TGI Friday’s
Location visited: 8334 Willow St. in Lone Tree
The deal: $10 for one entrée or one appetizer or dessert.
Recommended deal item: Pan-seared pot stickers. The dumplings here are tasty, complete with one of the best dipping sauces on the menu (a soy sauce variation).
The taste: The food we had TGI Friday’s was explanation enough for why I haven’t eaten at chains like these in more than a decade. It was cooked and presented carelessly. Clearly their quality assurance and training isn’t up to par.
The good news: They do apps decently. The aforementioned pot stickers are delicious. The wedge salad is fine, if overdressed.
The bad news: Everything else we had was sub-par. The criss-cross chicken breast with broccoli? Overcooked and tasteless. The cheeseburger should have been a slam dunk, but not here. The cheese wasn’t even melted to the patty.
The experience: We walked into the Lone Tree location on a gorgeous afternoon and to sit on the patio. Even though other customers were already seated out there, our hostess said no. “They snuck out there,” she said. “It’s not technically open.” We ate inside. When we left, there were two other patio tables filled with diners.
Chain rating: 4. out of 10
Final bill: $31, after two iced teas, tax and tip
