It takes next to no time to decorate the rims of pots for added effect. One idea is to use a piece of oiled, soft cord or string to make a serpentine pattern in the wet concrete. Once the concrete has set, remove the cord or string to reveal an elegant relief.
The pot shown here was cast in a large, round, plastic bucket, while the interior was created using a square container. As the inside is quite small in relation to the pot as a whole, its walls and top edges are fairly thick, allowing plenty of space for a decorative pattern. Experiment by varying the thicknesses of your cord or rope, which can create quite a different end result.
Mosaic tiles or glass pebbles set into and around the edge of the pot also make an attractive alternative. Go dotty by pressing oiled corks into the wet concrete. Or why not try variously patterned stamps? There are plenty of options — play around and find your favorite.
A piece of cord, whether it be thick or thin, can leave a wonderful impression in concrete. In this project, we snaked and twirled a piece of cord around the rim of a thick pot. Why not add a similar design to the bottom of a birdbath?
— From “Concrete Garden Projects: Easy & Inexpensive Containers, Furniture, Water Features and More,” by Malin Nilsson and Camilla Arvidsson (Timber Press, 2012)
Online: Watch video of how-to-make your own concrete house numbers
WORKING WITH CONCRETE
We have used fine concrete for the projects in this book, which we feel produces the best result. For a smoother finish, try repair mortar or repair concrete.
The easiest way to begin making concrete for casting is to buy ready-mixed, dry concrete, to which you just need to add water. Ready-mixed, dry concrete is available in 55-pound bags from builder’s merchants and other suppliers. Make sure that the consistency is loose enough to work with. The consistency is usually right if you can roll a ball that holds its shape and is the size of a small bun.
Remember to fill molds somewhere where splashes of the concrete dust and mix won’t matter. Concrete is also corrosive, so be sure to wear protective gloves.
Mix your concrete in a large bucket or tub. Only mix as much as you need.
Once you have chosen your mold oil it well to prevent the concrete from sticking as it sets. When filling the mold, make sure you pack the mix down well and shake and tap the filled mold to get rid of any air bubbles, ensuring a smooth surface.
Leave the concrete to harden. This requires a little patience, as you don’t want to remove the mold too soon. Drying times vary depending on the size of the object, but give any project at least 24 hours to harden.
Spritz larger items with a little water using a hand-spray and cover them with plastic to prevent them drying too quickly, which can lead to cracking. Don’t leave objects to dry in direct sunlight or very shady areas.
MATERIALS
• Fine concrete
• Two different sized bowls or containers
• Oil (ordinary cooking oil is fine, the authors say)
• A piece of cord
• A paintbrush
• A stone or a file
• A masonry drill bit (optional)
PROCEDURE
1. Begin by oiling the inside of the larger mold and the outside of the smaller one.
2. Oil the cord thoroughly. (Use gloves to avoid greasy fingers.)
3. Mix the concrete and fill the larger mold, leaving 1 inch free at the top. Shake the bowl to get rid of any air bubbles and to level the surface.
4. Press the smaller container into the middle of the large one. Remember not to press it down too much or the base will be too thin. Put a weight in the smaller mold to keep it in place.
5. Arrange the cord in an attractive pattern in the concrete between the molds and press it down gently. Leave the concrete to set for 48 hours.
6. Remove the cord and molds carefully. Smooth away any rough edges with a stone or file. Use a masonry drill bit to make drainage holes in the base of the pot if desired.
