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I am the eldest of nine kids. Growing up, the family was a dozen at the dinner table, if you counted the Great Dane underneath.

My mother’s oven was like Noah’s ark; everything entered in pairs. Two hams, two pans of scalloped potatoes, two peach pies. And, on Thanksgiving, two turkeys.

One ginormous bird would have done, but we were keen on leftovers. No St. John ever disputed that the turkey tasted better after Thanksgiving Day than on it, when served between slightly toasted Pepperidge Farm white bread, slathered in Best Foods mayonnaise, with a slice of cranberry jelly and cracked black pepper.

Until the pope changed his mind sometime during the 1960s and it became OK to eat meat on Fridays, the absolute worst thing about being raised Catholic was having to wait until Saturday to eat those sandwiches.

The Thanksgiving turkey is the closest thing that we modern Americans have to the communal pig of olden days, slaughtered once a year and of which every single part is used or eaten. I believe “tetrazzini” is Italian for “smithereens.”

After the slices of leftover meat for sandwiches, perhaps the most useful remains from the turkey are its carcass bones and meat. A defatted broth, quarts of it, is but the wellspring for any number of dishes come weeks ahead — soups, stews, risotti, even cures for colds.

To pair wines with such fare — from the sandwiches to the hashes — choose wines equally as casual and multipurpose. Here are some suggested whites, a dry pink, then reds, with a recipe as well that both uses some leftover bird and successfully cleans up those sweet potatoes and their marshmallow snows.

2013 Mayu Pedro Ximenez (Elqui Valley, Chile): From far north Chile; “Mayu” is the Inca name for the “river of stars” in the Milky Way; this dry, crisp, aromatic white is killer good. $15

2013 Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila-Haut White Cotes du Roussillon France: A blend of four different southern French white grapes that offers up both a plush, juicy texture but also a tangy, zesty finish. $13-$15

2013 Matthiasson Chardonnay “Linda Vista” (Napa, Calif.): Delicious, quiet, wee-wood chardonnay, with crystalline fruit (no tropicals) as if drinking liquid pear skin. $25

2013 Regaliali “Le Rose” (Sicily, Italy): A base of the grape nerello mascalese promises what it delivers: waves of aromas of red fruits (cherry, raspberry, pomegranate), all reined in by snappy acidity. $15

2011 Hecht & Bannier Languedoc Red (Languedoc, France): I’d pay the money for the aroma alone; a blend of syrah, grenache and carignan that just booms its scents from the glass, but also follows that with juicy juice on the tongue. $15

2012 LaFollette Pinot Noir (North Coast, Calif.): Man, this guy makes such great pinot for the money. Wafts of perfumes of dark cherry, cola and spice, seconded on the tongue in flavors. $20-$22

2011 Ravines Cabernet Franc (Finger Lakes, N.Y.): Terrific for food because of its medium-bodied weight, the cut of its soft tannin and bright acidity and its uplifting red fruit scents and savors. $20

2012 Avignonesi Rosso di Montepulciano (Tuscany, Italy): A plush, deeply pigmented version of sangiovese, moderate on the tannin, no skimping the acidity. $20-$22

Sweet Potato Pancake with Sliced Turkey and Sage Cream

Use your Thanksgiving leftovers for this treat courtesy of Paul Hobbs Winery, Sonoma, Calif. Serves 1.

Ingredients

1 tablespoon olive oil

½ small shallot, peeled and diced

4 sage leaves, chopped

½ cup Paul Hobbs Chardonnay or other dry white wine

½ cup cream

1½ cup leftover mashed sweet potato

1 egg

Salt and pepper

1 tablespoon butter

Leftover turkey breast

Directions

In a saucepan, saute shallot and chopped sage in olive oil. When fragrant, add wine and reduce by half; add cream and simmer 3-4 minutes on medium low heat; set aside.

Mix mashed sweet potato, egg, salt and pepper to taste until creamy. Melt butter in a nonstick pan and fry potato pancake over medium to medium-high heat for approximately 3 minutes on each side. Put pancake on a plate, top with heated sliced turkey and sage cream.