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Getting your player ready...

A smoked salmon quiche makes for a filling treat at The Avenue Grill. (Photo by William Porter)

Truth to tell, I’m not much of a brunch person. I’m an early riser, so after the shave-and-shower routine, I’m ready to eat now, rather than wait until mid-morning and then ruin myself for the rest of the day with Bloody Marys and a dish that’s some vaguely unsatisfying breakfast-lunch hybrid.

But I do enjoy reading my newspapers on Saturday — The Denver Post, natch, plus the weekend Wall Street Journal — at . The restaurant does a 1980s throwback dish that I’m fond of: a house-smoked salmon quiche with a dollop of dill creme fraiche, plus a green salad with a light, non-cloying maple dressing.

It’s a popular dish, and more often than not the chef will emerge from the restaurant’s small galley kitchen at some point to tell the bar and waitstaff to “86 the quiche.” Translation: It’s all gone.

I had the quiche on a recent Saturday. It was a fine, deep-dish balance of salmon and eggy goodness, washed down with a spicy virgin Bloody Mary. (During brunch, the Avenue only charges $2 for bloodies, bellinis and mimosas. Nice!)

It makes for a fine Denver breakfast, and is one reason the .

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