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At Cho77 restaurant in Denver, a curried chicken dish is an aromatic bowlful of heaven. (Photo by William Porter)

Curry and chicken and ramps — oh my!

In , I went on about how much I enjoyed the latest venture from chef Lon Symensma, at 42 S. Broadway.

One dish I singled out was the Thai coconut curry, a beautiful aromatic bowl packed with shredded poultry in a yellow curry broth. The dish was a wonder in its own right, but also owed much to the garnishes that came on the side: crispy egg noodles, cilantro and pickled ramps.

May is the time of year for , and seeing them on the menu always transports me back to my native Blue Ridge Mountains in North Carolina, where I’d hunt for the garlicky, scallion-like shoots in shady patches of forest. For most of the year, Symensma makes this dish with pickled mustard greens. Hats off to him for taking advantage of ramp season.

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