At Denver’s Onefold restaurant, a savory bowl of huevos rancheros. (Photo by William Porter)
On a recent visit to review , an eclectic breakfast-and-lunch spot in central Denver, I had a version of huevos rancheros that I had never encountered in nearly 40 years of eating the stuff: This one came in a bowl.
No big, right? Well, no, but this was a really different way of diving into the traditional mix of eggs, beans and chili sauce. These refritos were soupy, and wound up mixing in with the spicy green chile. When I cut into the eggs fried in duck fat, the yolks immediately joined the party. Except for slicing the bottom layer of tortillas with a knife and fork, I wound up, for the first time in my life, eating huevos rancheros with a spoon. All told, it was mighty tasty, albeit a bit on the weird side.
Next week: I take on a bowlful of Cheerios with a fork.
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