Lawn make-over
Itap been a tough summer season on lawns — little rain and outdoor activities can compact and stress the lawn. Not to mention dealing with overrun weeds, or simply trying to make due with a mature landscape that has more shade, or a lawn that is over 30 years old and tired. Consider doing a lawn rejuvenation between now and the end of September on existing cool-season Kentucky blue, fescue or rye grass. The goal is to introduce newer, better-adapted grass seed that in time will overtake the older variety and form a thicker, healthier and more attractive lawn. It may take a few growing seasons of the rejuvenation procedure for the newer grass to take hold, but why not give it a try — itap less money and effort then re-sodding the entire lawn or moving!
The three-step rejuvenation process includes aeration, also called core cultivation, overseeding with new grass seed and fertilizing (optional). First, shop at local garden centers for improved and more drought-tolerant grass seed varieties. Read the seed descriptions on the bins of seeds or ask for help matching your current turf species. Look for ones that will work for your sunlight and traffic conditions. Careful with buying big box store grass seeds that are sold everywhere in America — they could have added seeds like clover and may not match well. Now get going:
- Plan ahead — schedule aeration, unless you’re a DIY who rents or owns an aerator.
- Water the lawn well a day or two before aerating the lawn. It should be moist a couple of inches deep, but not soggy.
- Flag any sprinkler heads to avoid damage.
- Using a core aerator, make several passes in many directions, creating holes two-inches apart (think Swiss cheese) and pull plugs two to three inches deep.
- It is okay to power rake instead of aerating to expose the soil — run it in two different directions.
- After core cultivating or power raking, fill a drop spreader with grass seed and spread in two different directions over the aerated lawn. Error on the side that more seed is better to drop in the holes and make soil contact for optimal growth.
- Follow overseeding with a starter-type fertilizer using the same drop spreader.
- Use the back side of a rake over the seeded areas to knock more seeds and fertilizer into the holes.
- Water immediately after overseeding and fertilizing. Water often, up to two times a day if temperatures are warm. Seeds must be moist to sprout and get growing. Too much water will create a soggy lawn and poor germination.
- Give newly seeded grass or sod at least eight weeks to grow and establish before frost and cold temperatures settle in. Along the Front Range the average first frost date is Oct. 7.
- Wait until next May or June to seed warm-season buffalo or blue grama grasses or plant DOG TUFF™ plugs.
Other lawn improvement options
- For bald spots in the lawn, first loosen the compacted areas and remove any rocks, debris or weeds.
- Add a thin layer of compost (1/2 inch or so) over the bald spots, followed by spreading grass seed thickly over the area. Loosely cover with weed-free straw (available at garden centers) to help keep the area moist. Just as above, water regularly until the grass is an inch tall. Don’t mow newly seeded areas for two months.
- An entire existing living, or partially living, lawn can be killed before re-seeding and replaced with a similar or new species of grass seed. Once the lawn is completely dead, follow the same directions above. Check this helpful video from Colorado State University for additional information:
- Prior to seeding or sodding a new lawn, preparation is a must. A soil test will indicate what nutrients and organic matter is needed: . Fix drainage issues and remove weeds. More lawns die after a year or two because the initial groundwork wasn’t done correctly.
- Seeding how-to:
- Sodding how-to:
Grass seed overseeding tips
When overseeding an existing lawn, choose a grass seed or combination of seeds with similar appearance.
- It is okay to combine rye grass or fine fescue seed with bluegrass seed.
- Never seed tall fescue with bluegrass.
- Never seed buffalograss into tall fescue, ryegrass or bluegrass.
- Never seed tall fescue, ryegrass or bluegrass into buffalograss.
- Mowing can begin when the new grass is three inches tall.
Find more of Betty Cahill’s gardening tips at .
