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DENVER, CO - Nov. 11: Food ...
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This Oct. 6, 2014 photo shows red wine braised slow cooker short ribs in Concord, N.H. There is not a way to brown meat or vegetables within the moist confines of a slow cooker, which means that those ingredients will require some time in the skillet beforehand.
Matthew Mead, The Associated Press
This Oct. 6, 2014 photo shows red wine braised slow cooker short ribs in Concord, N.H. There is not a way to brown meat or vegetables within the moist confines of a slow cooker, which means that those ingredients will require some time in the skillet beforehand.

Praise the braise, the method of cooking meat in a wet environment (versus the dry place that an oven is). Many stringy vegetables such as leeks or endives benefit from a braise as well. If submerged in liquid, we call a braise a stew. Braising liquid may be as bland as water or as flavorful as broth, wine, beer, some juices —  or a blend of any of these. With meats, the main plus of a braise is the chance to use less costly cuts, high in difficult-to-chew connective tissues; the braise breaks these down into a gelatin-rich, luxurious backdrop to all the flavorings of the finished dish. As for stringy vegetables, a braise softens them too.

Dixon’s Braised Short Ribs Of Beef

From Dixon’s Restaurant, Denver, 1997

Ingredients

  • 12 short ribs of beef
  • 1 cup red wine
  • 1 carrot
  • 1 onion
  • 4 stalks celery
  • 4 shallots, minced
  • 4 cloves fresh garlic, minced
  • 1 1/2 quarts beef stock
  • 1 tbsp. cracked black pepper
  • 1 can (6 oz.) tomato paste

Directions

Brown short ribs and deglaze pan with red wine. Add shallots, garlic, carrots, onions and celery and continue cooking for 10 minutes. Add beef stock, tomato paste and pepper. Place all into braising pan and cook in 300-degree oven for 3 hours. Serve with your choice of potatoes. Or add a dollop of horseradish as a garnish. Makes 6 servings.

Braised Belgian Endives

From “Provence the Beautiful Cookbook” by Richard Olney

Ingredients

  • 1 1/2 pounds Belgian endives
  • Salt to taste
  • 1 ounce raw ham such as prosciutto, cut into matchsticks
  • 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
  • Juice of 1/2 lemon
  • 6 tablespoons heavy whipping cream

Directions

Butter a flameproof earthenware casserole or heavy saute pan of a size to just hold the endives. Arrange them in the casserole in a single layer. Sprinkle with salt to taste and scatter the ham over them. Place the butter fragments on top of the endive. Cover tightly and place over very low heat to sweat, checking from time to time and turning them over, until very tender and colored on all sides, 50-60 minutes. Add the lemon juice and turn the endives around to coat them evenly. Pour the cream over the endives, rotate the pan to swirl the contents gently and serve.

Contact Bill St John at bsjpost@gmail.com

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