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Chocolate layer cake. To keep the cake light and not too sweet, cocoa powder is used instead of melted chocolate, which can weigh down the batter. Food styled by Laurie Ellen Pellicano. (Joseph De Leo/The New York Times)

Chocolate layer cake. Dolloping a bit of frosting on the plate will help keep your first cake layer in place. Food styled by Laurie Ellen Pellicano. (Joseph De Leo/The New York Times)

Chocolate layer cake. Serving the cake at room temperature keeps the frosting fluffy. Food styled by Laurie Ellen Pellicano. (Joseph De Leo/The New York Times)

Chocolate layer cake. Melted chocolate gives the frosting its sheen and silky texture. Food styled by Laurie Ellen Pellicano. (Joseph De Leo/The New York Times)