Of all the soups in the American canon, chowder is one of the most divisive. Is it even a soup or more of a stew? Are clams or other seafood mandatory? Should it be white, clear or tomato-red? And where do vegetables like corn fit in?
The word “chowder” is most likely borrowed from the French chaudière, meaning cauldron, brought to Newfoundland by Breton fishermen. The earliest recipes date back to the 18th century. These were hearty stews made by layering fish, salt pork, onions and ship’s biscuits into the pot, and then letting it all simmer into something thick and satisfying.
Over the centuries, distinct regional styles developed, each with its own panache. New England favors seafood and potatoes in a pale, milky base. Manhattan swaps tomatoes for the dairy. Rhode Island makes a clear, brothy soup that highlights the saline flavor of the clams. And at some point in the 19th century, corn made its way into the pot, sometimes edging out the seafood entirely.
Since I have no roots in New England, Rhode Island nor even really Manhattan (I’m a native Brooklynite), I’ve never felt loyalty to a particular style. So, my latest take borrows from all of them. The broth is light and clear, a nod to Rhode Island. Cubed cherry tomatoes lend a colorful Manhattan flair. Corn and potatoes give it the sweetness and heft of a good vegetable chowder. And those looking for New England can stir a spoonful of heavy cream or yogurt into your bowl without having to commit the whole pot.
The biggest chowder outlier in my recipe is salmon, which I season with a large and untraditional dollop of horseradish. But the pink fish works well, adding its sweet flavor and velvety flesh to the mix of potatoes and corn, while the horseradish perks everything up with its inimitable zing.
If you have fresh corn, be sure to throw the naked cobs into the broth with the potatoes as they simmer; the cobs release a subtle earthiness that you won’t get from the kernels alone. But if you’re cob-less, frozen corn also works well, making this is a soup for all seasons.
And this is one of its many charms. In winter, like all soups, itap warming and restorative. But July and August are when it really shines: a light and summery tribute to fresh corn and tomatoes at their peak.
Brothy Corn and Salmon Chowder
By Melissa Clark
Filled with tender pieces of salmon, sweet corn kernels, and cubed potatoes and tomatoes, this lovely soup is both satisfying and easy to make. In the summer, itap a perfect vehicle for fresh corn, and you can simmer the cobs in the broth to bolster the flavors. But itap just as good with frozen corn whenever you’re craving a light, herby soup with a horseradish kick.
Yield: 4 to 6 servings
Total time: 40 minutes
Ingredients:
- 1 1/2 pounds skinless salmon fillets, cut into 1-inch pieces
- 1 1/4 teaspoons fine sea or table salt, divided, plus more to taste
- Freshly ground black pepper
- 3 teaspoons prepared horseradish, divided, plus more to taste
- 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 2 shallots, chopped
- 1 pound small Yukon Gold or red potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
- 1 quart vegetable broth
- 3 cups corn kernels (from 3 to 4 ears of corn, save the cobs), or use frozen corn
- 1 cup halved cherry tomatoes or cubed plum tomatoes
- 1/4 cup chopped basil, dill or chives (or a combination)
- 2 to 3 teaspoons fresh lemon juice, more to taste
- Heavy cream or plain yogurt (or both), for serving (optional)
Preparation:
1. Season salmon lightly with 1/2 teaspoon salt and a generous grinding of black pepper, then smear the pieces with 2 teaspoons horseradish. Set aside to marinate briefly.
2. In a soup pot or Dutch oven, melt butter over medium heat. Add shallots and 3/4 teaspoon salt, and cook until golden, about 5 minutes.
3. Add the potatoes, broth and corn cobs, if you have them, to the pot. Bring liquid to a simmer and let cook for 15 minutes; the potatoes should be almost cooked through.
4. Remove cobs from the pot if you’ve used them. If you like, you can let the cobs cool and squeeze their liquid back into the pot.
5. Add salmon, corn kernels and tomatoes to the pot and cook until the salmon is just cooked through and the potatoes are tender, about 5 minutes longer.
6. Stir in the remaining 1 teaspoon horseradish, herbs and lemon juice. Taste and add more salt, horseradish and lemon, if needed.
7. Serve in bowls, drizzled with heavy cream or dolloped with a little yogurt (or both), if you like.
This article originally appeared in .
