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Five Weeknight Dishes: Andy Baraghani’s chicken salad is full of crunch

Andy Baraghani inspired this recipe for spicy and creamy cashew chicken salad avoids mayo altogether.

Spicy and Creamy Cashew Chicken Salad. Andy Baraghani’s chicken salad is full of crunch and since it swaps cashew butter for the mayo, it can also stand the summer heat. Food styled by Barrett Washburne. (Linda Xiao/The New York Times)
Spicy and Creamy Cashew Chicken Salad. Andy Baraghani’s chicken salad is full of crunch and since it swaps cashew butter for the mayo, it can also stand the summer heat. Food styled by Barrett Washburne. (Linda Xiao/The New York Times)
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I love chicken salad, which can be superb and very satisfying if the chicken isn’t completely smothered by mayonnaise.

To be fair, the mayo is tricky to get right. Too little, and your salad is dry and disunited. Too much, and itap gloppy and dull. And when it gets as hot outside as it has been recently in many parts of the country, some people are altogether mayo-averse.

Luckily, Andy Baraghani has shown us another path. His inspired new recipe for spicy and creamy cashew chicken salad avoids mayo altogether. Instead, he uses cashew butter, soy sauce, lemon juice and honey for a creamy but light dressing, and adds cabbage, cucumbers and herbs for freshness and crunch.

That recipe, and four more for the week ahead, are below.

1. Spicy and Creamy Cashew Chicken Salad

Chicken salad can often veer a little heavy, weighed down by too much mayonnaise or a dressing that dulls everything it touches. This one takes a different approach: Cashew butter gives the dressing a creamy body, while soy sauce, fresh lemon juice and a little honey keep it bright, salty and lively. The result is something that coats the cabbage and chicken just enough without feeling too rich. Let the cabbage and chicken sit in the dressing for a few minutes so they can soften slightly while really picking up those flavors. Just before serving, fold in the cucumbers and herbs so they stay crisp and fresh; a handful of roasted cashews bring even more crunch. This chicken salad is punchy, deeply textured and the kind you’ll happily keep in the fridge for a few days, if it lasts that long.

By Andy Baraghani

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 20 minutes

Ingredients:

  • 3 tablespoons cashew or peanut butter
  • 1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
  • 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2 tablespoons soy sauce or tamari
  • 2 teaspoons honey
  • 1 to 2 medium-hot green chiles, (such as serrano or jalapeño), finely grated
  • 1 garlic clove, finely grated
  • Salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/2 medium head green or red cabbage, coarsely chopped or torn (8 cups)
  • 3 cups/about 12 ounces shredded cooked chicken
  • 2 small cucumbers, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
  • 1 cup mixed tender herbs (such as cilantro, basil and mint, very coarsely chopped)
  • 1/2 cup roasted salted cashews, coarsely chopped

Preparation:

1. In a large serving bowl, whisk the cashew butter and 3 tablespoons water until smooth. Gradually stream in the lemon juice, olive oil and soy sauce, whisking constantly. Stir in the honey, chile and garlic. If the mixture looks a little grainy, add another splash of water until it loosens and smooths out. Season with salt and pepper.

2. Add the cabbage and toss well, getting in there with your hands and massaging the cabbage a bit to help soften it. Add the chicken and toss again and let it sit for about 5 minutes to really soak up the sauce.

3. Add the cucumbers and herbs and toss again. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more salt and pepper before topping with the roasted cashews to finish.

Tip: Leftover chicken salad will keep, covered, for up to 3 days in the refrigerator. If you want to make the salad ahead to serve later, add the cucumbers, herbs and cashews just before serving.

Steak Quesadillas. Andy Baraghani's chicken salad is full of crunch and since it swaps cashew butter for the mayo, it can also stand the summer heat. Food styled by Simon Andrews. (David Malosh/The New York Times)
Steak Quesadillas. Andy Baraghani's chicken salad is full of crunch and since it swaps cashew butter for the mayo, it can also stand the summer heat. Food styled by Simon Andrews. (David Malosh/The New York Times)

2. Steak Quesadillas

These quesadillas are all about the embrace of melty mozzarella and warm, delicate flour tortillas, filled with succulent bites of salt-and-pepper steak. Instead of two tortillas united by cheese, this style of quesadilla uses only one, stuffed then folded. Cheese still defines and binds the dish, but it isn’t the only central character. Smashed avocado adds a lighter, fresher kind of richness, and a sprinkling of cilantro and onion lend a bright, zippy crunch. Inspired by the quesadillas served at Taquería Frontera in Los Angeles, where cheese plays a lighter role, this balanced recipe uses a skillet-melt technique in which a slice of cheese is melted directly in a pan, then a tortilla is laid on top so that the two adhere. All you need is a sturdy metal spatula to shimmy underneath them both, flip and reveal a cheesy filling that can range from just melted to lightly crisp.

By Christian Reynoso

Yield: 2 servings

Total time: 30 minutes

Ingredients:

  • 1/2 medium white onion (4 to 5 ounces), finely diced
  • 1/4 cup roughly chopped cilantro
  • 1 large avocado (about 10 ounces)
  • 1 lime, cut in half
  • 8 ounces skirt steak
  • Salt and pepper
  • 2 teaspoons canola or vegetable oil
  • 4 (6- to 8-inch) flour tortillas, preferably thin and freshly made
  • 4 (1-ounce) slices mozzarella or Monterey Jack cheese
  • Fresh salsa, such as pico de gallo or tomatillo salsa, for serving

Preparation:

1. In a small bowl, mix the onion and cilantro together and lightly season with salt.

2. Cut the avocado in half, pit and discard the pit, then scoop into a separate bowl and with a fork, mash into a chunky mixture. Season with salt and the juice of half of the lime and mix well to combine.

3. Season the steak all over with salt and pepper.

4. Heat a medium skillet (about 10-inches) over high heat. Add the oil and once itap shimmery and glides across the pan speedily when tilted, lay the steak into the pan and cook until well-browned on the bottom but rare on top, about 4 minutes. Flip the steak, turn the heat down to low and continue cooking until medium-rare to medium, 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board to rest.

5. Wipe the skillet clean and heat on medium-high.

6. Working one piece at a time, lay a slice of mozzarella directly in the middle of the skillet, then lay a tortilla on top. Let cook until the cheese has melted and is just starting to turn crisp and golden, 30 to 60 seconds, then quickly and firmly slide a thin metal spatula (such as a fish spatula) under the cheese to lift the cheese-coated tortilla and transfer it to a serving plate, cheese-side up. Repeat with remaining tortillas and mozzarella.

7. Cut the steak into small (about 1/2-inch) pieces and place on the cheesy tortillas. Top with the avocado mash and onion-cilantro mixture. Fold in half and serve immediately, with fresh salsa on the side.

Halloumi with corn, cherry tomatoes and basil. (Bryan Gardner/The New York Times)
Halloumi with corn, cherry tomatoes and basil. (Bryan Gardner/The New York Times)

3. Halloumi With Corn, Cherry Tomatoes and Basil

Seared cubes of halloumi get melty and soft on their insides and dark brown and a little crisp on the surface, making it almost impossible not to devour them all as they come out of the pan. But try to resist, because they’re even better tossed with a quick sauté of summer corn and tomatoes, seasoned with basil. Slivers of red onions, folded in raw at the end, add crunch and sweetness, while a squeeze of fresh lime makes everything tangy and fresh. Although this dish is at its most sublime made with fresh summer corn and ripe tomatoes, itap nearly as good in winter made with frozen corn. Serve it for a light, meatless dinner or a substantial side dish with roasted or grilled chicken or fish.

By Melissa Clark

Yield: 2 to 3 servings

Total time: 25 minutes

Ingredients:

  • 4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, more as needed
  • 12 to 14 ounces halloumi cheese, diced into 1-inch cubes and patted dry
  • 2 cups corn kernels, fresh or frozen and thawed (from 2 to 3 ears of corn)
  • 2 cups halved cherry tomatoes
  • 1 jalapeño, seeded or not, thinly sliced
  • 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
  • 1 teaspoon kosher salt (Diamond Crystal), plus more to taste
  • 3/4 cup thinly sliced red onion
  • 1/2 cup chopped fresh basil, more as garnish
  • 1 lime, cut into wedges
  • Black pepper

Preparation:

1. In a large, preferably nonstick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high until it thins out, about 20 seconds. Working in batches, add cheese in one layer, and cook until golden on one side, 1 to 2 minutes. Flip cheese and cook without moving until golden on the other side, about 1 minute longer. Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and repeat with remaining cheese.

2. Add remaining 2 tablespoons oil to the pan and heat it over medium-high. Add corn, tomatoes, jalapeño, cumin seeds and salt, and cook until corn and tomatoes have softened and everything looks juicy, about 5 to 10 minutes.

3. Remove pan from the heat and stir in the browned cheese, sliced onion and basil. Squeeze a lime wedge or two over everything and season with more salt and lots of black pepper. Garnish with more basil and serve immediately.

Pan-seared salmon. (Christopher Testani/The New York Times)
Pan-seared salmon. (Christopher Testani/The New York Times)

4. Pan-Seared Salmon

Searing salmon in a hot skillet is not only a speedy way to prepare it, but it also makes for a super-crisp crust and a tender, flaky center. A nonstick pan makes cleanup easy, but a heavy, cast-iron or stainless steel skillet works, too — just be sure to use a large one to avoid crowding the fish, and make sure to preheat the pan to avoid sticking. Make the recipe as written, or finish the salmon with a steakhouse-inspired butter-and-garlic baste (see Tip). Add a squeeze of lemon juice and a sprinkling of fresh herbs, such as parsley, dill or tarragon, if you have some on hand.

By Lidey Heuck

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 20 minutes

Ingredients:

  • 4 (6-ounce) salmon fillets, skin on or off
  • 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
  • Kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)
  • Black pepper
  • Half a lemon, for serving
  • Chopped fresh parsley, dill or tarragon, for serving (optional)

Preparation:

1. Heat a (12-inch) nonstick, cast-iron or stainless steel skillet over medium-high until itap very hot. (A drop of water flicked onto the pan should turn to steam almost immediately.)

2. Meanwhile, pat the salmon fillets dry with paper towels. Pour the oil over them and toss to coat, then season all over with salt and pepper.

3. When the pan is hot, add the fillets skin-side up, spacing them evenly. Cook until the salmon is browned on the bottom and releases easily from the pan, 3 to 4 minutes. Flip the fillets, reduce the heat to medium and cook until the salmon is cooked through but still slightly rare in the center, 4 to 5 more minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillets.

4. Remove the fish to a platter or individual plates and rest for 5 minutes, then squeeze the lemon on top and sprinkle with fresh parsley, if desired.

Tip: For a rich, restaurant-style finish, remove the pan from the heat and add 2 tablespoons cubed, unsalted butter and a smashed, peeled garlic clove. Tilt the skillet and spoon the melted butter over the salmon fillets a few times, until coated.

Chile Oil Noodles With Cilantro. (David Malosh/The New York Times)
Chile Oil Noodles With Cilantro. (David Malosh/The New York Times)

5. Chile-Oil Noodles With Cilantro

In this 20-minute recipe, a mixture of savory condiments coats bowlfuls of wide noodles chilled slightly by a quick rinse in cool water. While you cook the udon, take the time to prepare the sauce, abundant with contrasting flavors, and the fresh herbs. The sauce can be made in advance, but make sure itap at room temperature before tossing it with the noodles and the cilantro at the last minute. Substitutions are welcome: Swap in chile crisp in place of the chile oil with crunchy garlic, or scallions in place of garlic chives. Sichuan chile oil brings a citrusy flavor that is hard to replicate, so don’t skip it. It can vary in spice level: For a milder sauce, use only the liquid oil, or add Sichuan peppercorns from the bottom of the oil for extra tingle. Fried shallots are here for texture, but omit them if you use chile crisp.

By Judy Kim

Yield: 4 servings

Total time: 20 minutes

Ingredients:

  • 14 ounces dried udon noodles
  • 1/4 cup chile oil with crunchy garlic
  • 2 tablespoons pure sesame oil
  • 2 teaspoons Sichuan chile oil, or to taste
  • 2 teaspoons soy sauce
  • 1/2 cup finely sliced garlic chives or scallions, plus more for garnish
  • 2 tablespoons store-bought fried shallots, crumbled by hand (optional)
  • 1/2 cup finely chopped cilantro (see Tip), plus a few sprigs for garnish

Preparation:

1. Bring a large pot of water to boil and cook noodles according to package instructions, stirring from time to time to prevent them from sticking. Drain well in a colander, then run noodles under cold water until cooled.

2. Meanwhile, in a large bowl, combine all three oils with the soy sauce and 1/2 cup garlic chives.

3. Toss cooled noodles into the chile oil mixture. Gently fold in the crumbled fried shallots and chopped cilantro. Divide among four bowls, and top with more garlic chives and cilantro sprigs.

Tip: For crisp cilantro, place leaves and stems in an ice water bath until the leaves are firm. Drain and spin in a salad spinner. Store cilantro in the spinner and refrigerate until ready to use.

This article originally appeared in .

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