SAN FRANCISCO – Around nine years ago, my friend Renae and I,
grandmothers both, left for an adventure in England and Scotland,
staying at five youth hostels in a two-week period. Our “cheap
sleeps” were great fun. The best part was meeting new people (all
young at the hostels).
So, we decided to do it again but this time staying close to home
and checking out American youth hostels.
Armed with our Hostelling International membership cards ($18 a
year for seniors) and reservations, we flew off to San Francisco to
work our way south. Five hostels in five nights: two located next
to lighthouses.
We would play musical beds at Fort Mason, close to Fisherman’s
Wharf in San Francisco; Marin Headlands, a short drive north of San
Francisco and close to Sausalito; Montara, south of San Francisco
and next to an 1875 lighthouse and marine reserve; Santa Cruz,
south from there, set in Monterey Bay; and Pigeon Point, north of
Santa Cruz and also next to an 1872 lighthouse.
All the hostels we stayed at had bunk beds. On our previous
journey, we discovered the delights of top bunks – less
claustrophobic certainly, and good for reading at night (with a
flashlight or
miner’s lamp) so we wouldn’t disturb other sleepers.
I am loath to admit we were more agile nine years ago, but it’s
true. On this trip we tried the top bunks again, but after one
night of climbing up to sleep, then down to use the bathroom, then
back up again, our bladders won the toss, and we requested bottom
bunks for the rest of our stays.
San Francisco is quite possibly the most beautiful city in America.
Happily, the Fort Mason Hostel is within walking distance of
Fisherman’s Wharf, Ghirardelli Square and Chinatown. Fort Mason has
shared kitchen facilities and Caf Franco that serves inexpensive
breakfast goodies.
At Fisherman’s Wharf the excellent Aquarium of the Bay, next to
Pier 39, abounds with sea life. Docents explain the unfamiliar in
this aquarium that surrounds you on two sides and overhead –
complete with divers who swim through feeding the fish, the
octopus, sharks and rays.
Elsewhere at the wharf, you will find good shopping, great seafood
and the sights and sounds of hundreds of barking seals – males
large and small on floating pallets in San Francisco Bay.
Walking best mode of travel
San Francisco is meant to be explored on foot or by public
transport. We walked Chestnut Street, a lively neighborhood of
shops, restaurants, book stores, galleries, music and all that one
would wish in a renewed neighborhood. We ate at Dragon Well –
walnut prawns, green pea shoots, chocolate fortune cookies.
Delicious.
Two other Hostelling International accommodations exist in San
Francisco: SF City Center and SF Downtown. Both can be reached by
bus from Fort Mason. City Center boasts en suite bathrooms, and
Downtown is on Mason Street, near Union Square, at the epicenter of
the city.
We were happy at Fort Mason, which is in the Golden Gate National
Recreation Area, because it was close to the wharf, the bay and the
ever-changing views of the Golden Gate Bridge. But in town or not
is a matter of taste.
Marin Headlands Hostel, just across the Golden Gate Bridge from San
Francisco, is operated by the Golden Gate Council of American Youth
Hostels in cooperation with the National Park Service.
Like Fort Mason, this is part of an old (1907) Army base with
buildings that once housed soldiers, spread out among tall trees
that whisper in the wind. Once called Fort Barry, Marin Headlands
combines a forested area, meadows, beach and another brilliant view
of the San Francisco Bay.
You can request a private room here if you’re a couple. We talked
to families and children staying in the main building (the kids
were noisily part of a large group on an outing). We were in a
close-to-private, nicely furnished, clean unit with living room,
dining room and shared kitchen, far from the kids’ groups. Our
space may well have been a former general’s home, now furnished
with the usual bunk beds. Linens and towels are available for $1
extra.
We were excited when we discovered that pelicans (small
brownish-gray ones) had just returned to the lagoon next to the
beach. The beach here was windy and chilly, but the wind painted
mystical patterns across the sand. This was May; we wore jackets,
hats and scarves.
Before we left, we visited the U.S. Forest Service office, housed
in a chapel that served all faiths during World War II, to get a
Wild Flowers of Marin booklet so we could identify species in the
surrounding meadows.
We drove to Sausalito, a Mediterranean-like town with homes that
climb up hillsides, where it would be easy to spend more than a
day. Once a sheltered harbor for large sailing ships and later a
major ship-building site for World War II liberty ships, the area
became (and still is) a mecca for artists, artisans and writers.
Many still live in floating homes moored in the curved harbor and
show their works in local shops and the Sausalito Arts Festival
during the Labor Day holiday. Great galleries, shops and
restaurants snuggle into this charming town. Ferries go back and
forth to San Francisco, and the Golden Gate Bridge is always within
sight.
We missed the gray whale migration that passes Point Montara, our
next stay, where we had booked Montara Hostel – this one with
several buildings close to the cliffs above the sea. We chose a
double-bedded room in the Fog Signal Annex building “Watch Room”
next to the historic 1875 lighthouse that still signals passing
ships.
Magical colors
The Fog Signal Annex building houses a recreation room (a large
space with a couple of couches, lamps and a fireplace and nothing
else) and a “Tool Room” with bunk beds. We particularly enjoyed
our privacy here, the sound of the waves pounding the rocks and a
patio where we watched the sun set in a wash of pinks that for a
few magical moments tinted the ocean with color no photographer or
painter could ever capture.
One drawback to the “Watch Room” we were warned about: We had to
go outside to the hostel building next door for the bathroom. If
you choose this space, keep a flashlight and shoes at the ready.
Montara has the usual shared kitchen facilities; you put your food
in a bag with your name on it in the fridge. Outdoor grilling
facilities also are available.
The James Fitzgerald Marine Reserve is a short distance from
Montara, and we packed a lunch and walked the quiet 4-mile beach to
peer into tide pools that sea stars, anemones, sea urchins, baby
crabs and other tiny sea life call home. This is a fragile
ecosystem that may be looked at with wonder (and no touching).
The beaches along this portion of the California coast are great
for walking, surfing and, we were told, horseback riding and
wind-surfing. Surfing may be a bit much for grandmothers, but
horseback riding on a wind-blown, water-dappled beach sounds ideal.
Next time.
Passing small towns and more lovely beaches, we drove to our next
stop, Santa Cruz Hostel. Santa Cruz is a lively city of 55,000. We
parked the car and walked around, talking to people and enjoying
the sights before checking in. Generally, hostels are closed
between 10 a.m. and 4-5 p.m., so it leaves plenty of time to
explore.
Santa Cruz has a pretty downtown area with nice cafs, shops and
lots of young people – many attend the University of California at
Santa Cruz with its large forested campus in the hills just east of
the city. After lunch at Walnut Street Caf we drove to the
university to view the Arboretum that features Australian and
African gardens, seen via numerous winding walking paths. Farther
north of the Arboretum stand redwoods. J.S. Bach would have written
music for these trees had he seen them.
The Santa Cruz Hostel, not far from downtown, combines a group of
cottages in a nice residential area at the top of a hill. It’s
within walking distance of the beaches, a boardwalk with an
amusement park and the wharf. The boardwalk is home to a 1920
wooden roller coaster called “The Big Dipper” that runs during
the summer.
Santa Cruz’s protected setting within Monterey Bay is enviable. The
Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary sustains an abundance of
marine life: whales, dolphins, sharks, sea otters, seals and fish,
plus smaller sea creatures that hide in kelp forests. Within this
sanctuary is a deep (to 10,000 feet) undersea canyon. This is the
largest national bay sanctuary in America.
Renae and I would have wished to stay here longer to explore the
bay by boat with a guide or even to rent a sea kayak on our own. On
a return visit we will hike Big Basin Redwoods State Park,
California’s oldest state park and one of many in the Santa Cruz
area.
Instead, after dinner on the municipal wharf at Carniglia’s
restaurant, we walked near the bay, then returned to the hostel.
Oldest sea resort
Morning found us at Emilie’s Bakery for buttery croissants before
we turned south a few miles to Capitola, the oldest sea resort in
California. It’s definitely a beach town, small and village-like.
Brunch was unhurried at Zelda’s on the wharf under beach
umbrellas.
Why is it that all stresses seem to disappear while sitting close
to the ocean? As relaxed as we could be, we strolled the short
distance to the esplanade to read newspapers and our books, and
watch surfers pop up (and fall down) in the ocean. On a sunny
Saturday afternoon, could anything be better?
How loath we were to leave. But Pigeon Point Lighthouse Hostel
beckoned in Pescadero, 27 miles north of Santa Cruz. The Pigeon
Point Lighthouse stands 115 feet tall and dates to 1872. Four
separate units are next door, with only a couple of private rooms.
All share kitchen facilities and common rooms for reading or
talking. Men and women sleep in separate bunk-bedded dorms, six to
a room.
Because we don’t eat as much as we once did and restaurant portions
these days loom larger on plates than ever, kitchen facilities are
helpful because we tend to take our uneaten bits with us.
Pigeon Point Hostel is operated by the Golden Gate Council of Youth
Hostels in cooperation with the Department of Parks and
Recreation.
I spent my time photographing the lighthouse while Renae chatted
with an older couple (hah! probably our age), one of several we met
on our California hostel tour.
While all hostel staff we met were helpful and friendly, at Pigeon
Point, Jenna went even further for me when my backpack strap broke.
She repaired it, at least temporarily, so that on a hike the next
day in Ao Nuevo State Reserve (about 7 miles south of Pigeon
Point), it served as a backpack once more instead of a heavy,
drag-along pouch. Good thing, too, as the hike to see the elephant
seals is 3 miles along the peninsula and a longish walk to the
beach below.
Between December and April thousands of elephant seals converge
here to mate and breed their young. The males stage bloody battles
to acquire their harems. By our visit in May, there were no crowds
to watch the spectacle and no docents to lead the tours and keep
visitors far enough away from these giants (up to 3 tons and 16
feet long) and their breeding grounds and amours. When we saw them
the elephant seals were sleeping, and the rookeries and water were
filled with young seals.
Plenty of wildlife
The 4,000-acre Ao Nuevo State Reserve offers so much wildlife. On
a trail that led to the beach, we saw loons and pelicans. A
pheasant ran from its hiding place directly across our path. Still,
most astonishing of all were the elephant seals, whether snoozing
or cavorting. Massive and so homely as to be almost beautiful, they
have been returned from near-extinction.
Numerous beaches can be explored along the winding coast road.
Additionally, small rustic villages are hidden farther inland among
the forested areas. Stands of redwoods rise in the Santa Cruz
Mountains.
After leaving charming Half Moon Bay (Main Street Caf has the best
vanilla latt I’ve ever tasted), take Route 35, Skyline Boulevard,
south for lovely views of both ocean and San Francisco Bay. Here
are redwoods as far as the eye can see. Three miles north of the
Route 84 turnoff stands a colossus: Old Methuselah, a redwood whose
life spans 1,800 years.
Our ages allow us to be more reflective than we were nine years
ago. Thus, looking back at this hostel trip, we would do a couple
of things differently.
For this trip, my sciatica traveled with me; Renae’s arthritis
caused some pain. While we never considered not going, we were
tempted once or twice to break our five nights in five different
hostels with a stay at a bed-and-breakfast inn along the way.
If we go the hostel route again, we will stay more than one night
in each or even intersperse the hostels with a hotel.
Sleeping on a thick mattress under a goose-down duvet became my
obsession. It was alleviated when I returned home to my own bed.
Rachel Pollack is a freelance writer who lives in Denver.
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If you go
Fort Mason Hostel, Fort Mason, Building 240, San Francisco, CA
94123; 415-771-7277. Beds: 162. Rates: Dormitory rooms $22-$29 for
adults, $15 for children under 12 traveling with a family; private
rooms $67.50-$73.50.
Marin Headlands Hostel, Fort Barry, Building 941, Sausalito, CA
94965; 415-331-2777. Beds: 104. Rates: $18; extra charge for
private rooms.
Point Montara Hostel, P.O. Box 737, Montara, CA 94037;
650-728-7177. Beds: 45. Rates: $18 for adults, $12 for youths 17
and under; extra charge for private rooms.
Santa Cruz Hostel: 321 Main St., Santa Cruz, CA 95060;
831-423-8304. Rates: $18 for adults, $14 for children 12-17, $10
for children 4-11.
Pigeon Point Lighthouse Hostel, 210 Pigeon Point Road, U.S. 1,
Pescadero, CA 94060; 650-879-0633. Rates: adults, $15 for members
of Hostelling International, $18 for nonmembers; $15 for children
12-17, $10 for children under 12; additional $15 for a private
room.
Ao Nuevo State Reserve. This 4,000-acre reserve between Half Moon
Bay and Santa Cruz is a major gathering area for northern elephant
seals, which may be seen year-round. During the breeding season
Dec. 15-March 31, access to the reserve is available only via
guided walks. Reservations are recommended for walks. Call
800-444-4445 two to three months in advance. Information:
650-879-0227 or www.parks.ca.gov.
More information: Hostelling International, 415-863-1444;
800-909-4776; www.norcalhostels.org; www.hiayh.org/hostels/california/california.cfm. Some hostels charge for sheets and towels
($1).
What to bring that no one tells you: ear plugs, soap, sunscreen,
towels if you like your own, a lock if you want to store your
luggage in a locker (available at some hostels).
